What OIL are you running ?

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by BladeWitch, Aug 3, 2013.

  1. thefirebloke

    thefirebloke Elite Member

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2012
    Messages:
    1,911
    Likes Received:
    1,559
    I'm with Dogman on this one, Motul 5100. Cheap as chips and absolutely no issues with the last 4 blades and well over 100,000 miles covered. Hate to use products that are "blinged up" and cost an arm and a leg!
     
    • Like Like x 3
  2. moab78

    moab78 Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2013
    Messages:
    68
    Likes Received:
    21
    I'm using Motul 5100 in my 03 too. The only thing that disconcerted me is that it looks golden going in through a funnel but dark in the sight glass - before the engine had even been turned over.
     
  3. dogman

    dogman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    35
    What price do you guys in UK get Silkolene comp 4 for ? Its about $60 AUD normally here but comes on special occassionally, same as Motul 5100.
    The Castrol power1 is $60 also, motul 300v is about $120 from memory, it would need to be bloody good for that.
     
  4. foenix

    foenix Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2013
    Messages:
    1,182
    Likes Received:
    250
    But which Sylkolene are you running : pro 4 / pro 4 plus or comp ?

    Everybody go with 10w30 but for oil burner , why don't you go with 10w50 ?
     
  5. dogman

    dogman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    35
    Comp 4. 10w40
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. T-u-R-b-O

    T-u-R-b-O Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    63
    I use this badboy:

    ___________4T_10_4f855a7430b17-500x500.jpg

    cause with temps of 35+ degrees cels. the usual 10w40 makes my gearshifts "crunch" too much because the 10W40 cannot cope with these temps... the 10w50 removes the crunch from the gearbox and gears go in smoother due to the higher and more dense viscosity (that is from my own personal experience)... the downside is that the bike needs to be warmed up pretty good before you give it the beans...

    Nico :)
     
  7. sps170373

    sps170373 Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2013
    Messages:
    7,860
    Likes Received:
    3,091
    Been using castrol but the silkolene sounds like an interesting proposition
     
  8. phantom

    phantom Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2012
    Messages:
    4,905
    Likes Received:
    1,470
    for me its because irish weather works better with 10w30 over the thicker 10w50
     
  9. BladeWitch

    BladeWitch New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    96
    images.jpeg
    View attachment 13368

    6000 miles on my blade now, ive just started using motul 300v which has this really funky looking yellow/green colour to it.

    update on the motul 300v - put the stuff in and ripped the stuff out quick as going around the block - wrong move for what i want - ive done a shit load of study on this and now putting honda HP4 in with the option of frequent GN4 changes.

    found out from honda racing that motul 300v is for sacrificial race engines not high performance engines you want to take care of.
    see, race engines are sacrificial - they are wasted to win the race - sure motul 300v will get the most out of the engine but at the cost of its longevity - the fully synthetic oils are too slippery for their own good - they slip past the compression rings in the blade and burn which is bad news for the healthy of the engine - synthetics are great for slipper clutches and gears but they are crap for blade pistons - if you want your engine to last, use honda GN4 10w30 with oil changes ever 300 miles - if you want your clutch to be smoother, then go honda HP4 10w30 - i have tones of info on this if you wanted to look into it.
     
    #29 BladeWitch, Aug 11, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2013
    • Like Like x 1
    • Downvote Downvote x 1
  10. HRCTrev09

    HRCTrev09 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2011
    Messages:
    1,220
    Likes Received:
    717
    Eeeeeeehhhh! Remind me never to drink the Starbucks coffee when a visit Australia! ;)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  11. BladeWitch

    BladeWitch New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    96
    fully synthetic, awesome slippery stuff - good for sacrificial race engines that must win - great for slipper clutch, great at high temps but bad juju for long term engine life - but hey, its for racing and winning not long term engine life, right.
     
  12. BladeWitch

    BladeWitch New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    96
    what temps are you riding in and what temps is the blade operating at ?
     
  13. BladeWitch

    BladeWitch New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    96
    great - its equivalent to the honda HP4 except for the esters - if you didnt run honda HP4 then the motul 5100 would be next being a semi syn.
     
  14. BladeWitch

    BladeWitch New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Messages:
    295
    Likes Received:
    96
    theres nothing wrong with that
     
  15. phantom

    phantom Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2012
    Messages:
    4,905
    Likes Received:
    1,470
    castrol uk will argue against that comment, they recommend fully synth for the blade
    so they are hardly going to do that if it shortens the life of an engine.If it was they would
    recommend the non synth stuff.one othe note is the honda manual says honda GN4 but it
    says beside it for america and canada, my local dealer says honda uk recommend them to
    use honda HP4S 10w/30.
     
  16. T-u-R-b-O

    T-u-R-b-O Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    63
    I said that currently it is very hot @ around 32-35 degrees Celsius (sometimes even hotter) and this is where the 10W40 begins to fail... gears crunch and the engine becomes more "rattley"... as mentioned - 10W50 removes these issues, but takes longer to get up to temp... I don't have an actual oil temp gauge so I cannot tell you exactly what oil temp each oil runs at :rolleyes:

    Greets,

    Nico
     
  17. HRCTrev09

    HRCTrev09 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2011
    Messages:
    1,220
    Likes Received:
    717
    That's interesting,

    What I've been led to believe is that fully synthetic oil is the best oil for all conditions with excellent stay-in grade and that the molecules in mineral oil which is in semi and conventional 4 stroke oils breaks down far quicker than synthetic there for not protecting for as long!
    Also the W in 10W30 stands for weather and not weight and that some manufacturers aren't always that accurate with there viscosity! So oils will vary even tho it says 10W30 that might not be exactly what your getting :eek:
     
  18. dogman

    dogman Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    Messages:
    129
    Likes Received:
    35
  19. mekanix

    mekanix Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Messages:
    216
    Likes Received:
    73
    well this has turned into a bit of a mine field. I have been deliberating on what oil to use in my 04 blade, due a change and got everything else to do it, just can't decide which oil to use. Although I have just bought a Filtro oil filter so if anyone has anything to put me off using it let me know cos I really don't want my engine to go bang. I want an oil that's gonna give me longevity with very hard riding so what's the best one to go for?
     
  20. F1reblade

    F1reblade Active Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2013
    Messages:
    363
    Likes Received:
    130
    I was wondering the same thing for my 05 and so rang the dealer. They swear by Motul 5100 semi synth and believe its an excellent oil and have never had any issues with it. So that's what I'll be buying :)
     

Share This Page