If you have not seen this on the tdr forum its worth a read and watch. I wrote this in the off season last year so as Rookies know what to expect when taking there bike for inspection, hopefully it'll give you some ideas and help. As there are so many rookies starting racing this season it can be a bit strange at your first meeting going to Tech Inspection, what to expect, what are we checking for? Well this is looking through my eyes at what i'm doing when looking at your bike, hopefully it gives a bit of insight to what we do. Technical Inspection ……………what the hell am I doing? Current Road Race Technical specs can be downloaded from the current ACU handbook on the ACU website. http://www.acu.org.u...NDBOOK_2012.pdf A little insight into what we, the technical officials are doing and looking at when we inspect your bike, this is a typical set of checks but not exhaustive. Most officials have their own routine but basically all will check for the same items First up you will be asked to support your bike from the rear and asked for your scrutineering card (which you will have signed) From this I will check your race numbers, Frame/engine numbers and transponder number PLEASE NOTE: Anyone found in possession of a machine with tampered or defaced engine or frame numbers will not be allowed to race, even if you have receipts for the bike. Details can be found here http://www.bemsee.ne...-a-racers-guide I will start at the front of the bike checking handlebar clip-ons are securely fixed and the handlebars and levers do not foul the fairing on full lock. Levers have rounded ends. The steering lock is checked such that full lock is only limited by the lock-stops, not by steering damper or brake fluid reservoir smashing the clocks! Tug on the front fairing to ensure secure fixing. The throttle will be twisted to ensure it freely returns to its fully closed position (i.e. it snaps shut) The front brake operation will be checked and if your front brake hoses have a split (1 into 2 join) this must be above the bottom yoke, linked callipers are not allowed. Most race bikes run 2 separate lines from the front master cylinder. While doing this I will also check that there is no play in the head bearings. Check that clocks are mounted secure and there is a manual engine kill switch accessible. Coolant, plain or distilled water only, no additives in the cooling system what so ever. There is no requirement for a separate catch bottle for coolant overflow but is advisable to direct into the belly pan if no catch bottle is used. From here I will check the front wheel, Calliper bolts tight? No visible signs of brake fluid leaking? Disk bolts all present and tight? Front tyre fitted the correct rotation, valve cap fitted and any wheel weights fitted must be taped up with gaffa tape. While I’m kneeling down I will also check for any signs of leaking around the fork seals. I will now check that the oil filter, sump bolt and filler cap has been lock wired (some bikes also have dip sticks this also has to be wired) any engine breathers must vent into a collection bottle. I will run my hand along the bottom of the fairing catch tray, this must be solid with no holes in it and constructed to hold at least half of the total oil and coolant capacity of the engine (generally all race fairings are designed to this spec) as well as the fact that any openings in the fairing are at least 50mm above the bottom of the fairing. If drain plugs have been fitted these must be taped in place from both sides. Check left hand side foot peg has rounded ends, if standard ‘flip up type’ pegs are used hero blobs have to be removed. Make sure no excessive play or loose joints on gear shift mechanism. Side stand removed? (Yes it does happen!) I will check the rear shock visually as well as the upper and lower mounting bolts, I will ensure there is no play in the wheel bearings or swing arm by forcing the wheel from side to side. Shark fin fitted? Check all sprocket nuts are present and tight, chain adjustment correct? From here I move to the right hand side of the bike, rear brake working? Calliper is checked for movement and all disk bolts are present and tight. Exhaust end can securely fitted and exit does not project beyond any part of the vehicle or its bodywork. Check right hand side foot peg has rounded ends, if standard ‘flip up type’ pegs are used hero blobs have to be removed, rear brake lever securely fitted and not fouling on any part of machine. From here I will move to the top of the bike and check fuel tank/filler cap is securely fastened, give the rear seat unit a tug and make sure mounting is solid. Assuming the bike passes inspection your card will be signed and a ‘Day Sticker’ affixed to your bike. If for any reason your bike fails you will be asked to fix the problem and bring the bike back to recheck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxeXkTb5VZI
Being totally honest with you, scrutineering is nothing to worry about. make sure that you have lockwired up the oil filler cap, the dipstick, sump plug and oil filter. Numbers need to be the right shape, size and colour and displayed on the front of the bike and one each side. As for the rest of the bike, just make sure everything is tightened up. Check brake/clutch levers won't trap your fingers against bodywork and with bodywork, your belly pan needs to be an ACU approved type one, that will hold your engine oil. It therefore needs to have a sold rear to it and no drain holes. Some scrutineers will insist on metal valve caps, rather than plastic one, so fit those as standard. They will inspect your helmet, leathers and dog tag, so make sure you have that lot with you. You can get the bike done first, then reappear in your gear, but I personally get the whole lot done in one go. Things to remember to take with you are your dog tags and scrutineering card. It really isn't a great deal to worry about, but remember to play fair with them. They are doing a job to make sure all is safe on circuit, so if they question something, don't get pissy. They have good memories and you really don't want to get on their wrong side.
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At robin said I got worried about scrut but it was a calm affair with hottrax anyway you don't need a catch tank just make sure coolant tank and petrol overflows run into a belly pan that can hold half the amount of engine oil . No holes lower than 50mm up belly pan . I had to write my frame number on the sheet and they just asked if my sump bolt filler cap and oil filter was lock wired that was it too be honest
It won't stop the chain coming off, just stops limbs getting between chain and sprocket in case of a fall( sorry to be a smart a*se )
the amount of things I've learnt over the last 5yrs, and am still learning every track/race day is unbeleivable.... if only it would make me go faster
Anyone know where the engine breather pipe is on a blade 2009 ?as I need to put a collection bottle on the end of it and I am fecked if I can locate it found the overflow pipe for the fuel tank and rad overflow pipe which both are near front sprocket. Also am I right in saying as long as the rad water overflow pipe goes in to the belly pan you don't need to put a bottle on the end of it .Its says on the regs that I posted on here you don't but have read elsewhere you do . Cheers
I ran water overflow and fuel overflow bottles on my old blade, padgetts ebay shop sell the proper HRC pipe & Catch bottles, fill each bottle with a tablespoon full of kitty litter to stop any overflow sloshing around. PS, Scrutineering, easy! Its just common sense & reading the regs, yet to be picked up with anything!
Cheers Yeah I bought the hrc bottles last night of eBay £10 each but can't find the engine breather pipe does it even have one ?
I do beleive it breathes through air box mate, so blank off air box drain, run fuel overflow along n/s top of air box up to bottles on front.
