New Chain

Looks like it will soon be time to replace the chain. Bikes only done 5k miles. I guess the factory chains don't last all that long.

530P 116 links is what the manual says. Am thinking of a Tsubaki replacement with some Talon sprockets.

 

Chains and sprockets are kinda like tyres. Everyone's got their preference. I've got Renthal sprockets and an AFAM chain on mine. Previous to that I had a DID chain and standard sprockets.

I'm buggered if I can tell the difference.

 

5k only and a new chain needed, you must do some hard riding

 

S

ame here Afam chain and sprockets bike torque racing. 520 tho

 

DID gold chain. I got 17000 miles on the OEM one.

 

15600 on my original now... It's just reaching the limit marked... Not sure what to change it for yet, however I may install a scottoiler at the same time... I fancy a pumped one...

H

 

DID gold X-ring chain (530) and Renthal 44T sprocket now on mine - wheelie machine!

 

OEM chains are normally pretty good as long as they are reasonably maintained.

 

DID gold. I would not use the Scott thing. Create a mess. Just clean your chain every 500 miles.

 

I've used Scott oilers on a few bikes over the years and if you've got the right sort of bike and the space to fit it they are great. If they are set up properly they don't make much mess and what mess they do make is easily wiped off with nothing more than a dry rag. The secret is setting them up and being " mean" with the oil, ie one drop every minute and a half. The chain stays cleaner than any dry lube, wax or oil I've ever used.

 

Do you need to clean off all the wax the new chain comes in?

 

You don't have to but I do. The wax goes everywhere!!

 

Cheers

 

I can also attest to this!

 

I get 20K out of OEM chains used in all weather, so 5K must be a hella of a lot of abuse or a poorly maintained/aligned chain

 

Not sure i've only had the bike a year, and put about 2k on her. I don't know what care, if any, the previous owners did for the chain but after every ride I clean the chain and lube it. The chain does have a bit of life left in it I guess just not sure how much though as the picture above shows maybe about 3mm before the adjuster plate hits the red indicator mark.

I've went ahead and bought a Tsubaki chain and some Talon sprockets anyways. Now just need to find a cheap tool to stake the hard rivets as they are not the flange type.

 

Are you sure where about the red line in your picture? I believe the alignment point is at the end of the block and not where the red line is.

I had a VFR and did 18k on the original chain and I expect similar results from my RR8. I only clean the chain (with diesel) at 300~500 mile interval depending on riding weather conditions. I stopped using the spry on wipe off cleaners as I don't think they get the grit out of the chain. I use dry spray lube every 120~16 miles.
There are many many factors that affect chain wear here are few prime suspects:
chain too tight or too slack
chain/ wheel alignment
riding style (on/off throttle is a chain killer)
total weight of what the bike is carrying
chain lubricant
I don't the quality of the original chain is an issue

 

5k is nothing for the chain, if it has been maintained propely. With regular adjustments and lubrication, you can easily do 15k, or even 20k.
But if you feel the urge to replace the OEM, just pick any recommended chain and add two teeth at the back, or drop one at the front.
Enjoy! hahahaaa ;-)

 

guy on my rr4 i have no liit marker how cani tell if is due for changing

 

I used to run them on all my previous bikes... The lack of room on the blade is a bit of a worry though. And i'd go for the pumped version next I think (You set drops /min via an LCD screen rather than watching the drips and moving a dial).

H