After 3 weeks of enjoying my Blade I decided to get to the bottom of this odd rattling noise she made ever since I bought her. I have been looking for hints and clues high and low, but could not quite find anything that would sound similar. So, I decided to do this little write-up which will hopefully help others identify and sort out this little gremlin more easily. From what I could find online I was either facing a CCT replacement or even a more expensive engine bearing or valve correction procedure. So, I thought start with the easy stuff- first, rule out something gone lose inside the exhaust. I had already unhooked the EGCV ('exhaust flapper') cables after week 1, so thought I may as well open the thing again, and completely remove the control cables. I know that common consensus about the EGCV purpose is that it not only changes the power characteristics at the lower rev band, but also reduces the noise emission below 5000rpm (approx.) So, I thought, I play with it, and turn the flap with my fingers on idle to see how much noisier she would be with the flap fully open compared to fully closed. While playing around I noticed that the sound of my rattling noise (yes, my rattling noise- I have almost grown fond of it and associated it with the pleasures of riding a Blade ) slightly changed- not easy to hear, but there was a difference. I then worked out that it was ever so slightly less audible when I pushed the retaining screw for the wheel which takes up the cables. So, I decided to remove the little wheel (there is a retainer clip which is a piece of metal ensuring the nut cannot come lose, just bend both sides flat down so the nut is accessible): Once the little wheel was off, I was able to push the remaining part (smaller round retainer, which is spring loaded) in by approx. half inch- and the rattle was gone! As the spring kept pushing the part back out, I made a little metal bracket - 2mm steel with a 4mm hole on one side, and bent in a 'S-shape'- which I could screw down with the right side screw which bolts the box to the exhaust, while the other end would push the part in and keep it in. I them put a bit of dense foam (the black stuff which can be found in some engine bays- guess I could have used some other foam which is suitable for higher temperature applications) on top of it, so that the metal lid which covers the box would further push down this moving part (and reduce the likelihood of my clip coming lose when getting hot). Lid on- done! Happy to finally get the cultivated sound typical for Honda engines (still original exhaust as you can tell ), I then proceeded with fitting my new HEL brake lines, and the Repsol rear hugger which I bought earlier. Gave her a wash, oiled the chain, checked the oil level, then a quick test ride. Sweet! Life is good. YEAH!
Cheers Andy- and yes, my trees don't grow money either, so it's always nice to find a way of fixing it myself! Peter
I've been having running probs under 5k and the previous owner replaced the exhaust with a Akrapovic slipon and with the old exhaust comes two cables. Should this cause a problem?
Hi morpheus, not sure what problem you have, is she not idling properly? Running rough? I can only assume the 2 cables you are talking about are the EGCV aka 'Exhaust Gas Control Valve'- a fancy acronym for the system which uses a flap inside the exhaust pipe to dynamically reduce the amount of exhaust gas flow depending on engine revs; like the YPVS (Yamaha Power Valve System, and later EXUP) it aims to increase torque at lower revs so to make an engine with a failry wide rev band more useable for people like me, who mainly ride in town (time, not mileage )- compared to most cars, these superbike engines have their full power way above and beyond of what most car engines are capable of revving, and can be quite 'weak' at low revs. Secondly, the EGCV reduces exhaust noise emissions below some 5000 revs (happy to stand corrected!) which I think is a by-product of the intended functionality I was referring to earlier. Removing the cables should not have any negative impact on the running of your engine at lower revs, but you would probably feel a slight loss of power when pulling away at the lights- personally, I have not noticed any difference after removing the cables. What you should not do is remove the little electric motor- on my 2006 it is under the riders seat, and it operates those 2 cables to turn the flap inside the exhaust pipe- as the electronics will check for its presence; if it is not detected I think it would flag up an FI error, and perhaps even may switch to some sort of 'limp-mode' i.e. restrict the engine's full power (again not sure, but perhaps someone else could confirm). I take it though that this is not your problem, so just FYI What I can only assume may cause you issues is if the previous owner installed something like a power commander unit which allows you to manipulate your engine management and match certain aspects of the standard "map" to the changed characteristics of an altered exhaust system, such as those lovely Acrapovic slip-ons (which I cannot afford ) There are many potential reasons for the engine having problems, ranging from ignition, fuel and air management and internal mechanics such as problems with valves etc. so you would probably need to provide a lot more detailed info for either someone on the forum to be able to give a more helpful diagnosis, or have it seen 'in the flesh' by someone who really knows these engines (much better than I do anyway )
The previous owner put an Akrapovic slipon and PC3 on it but I'm not sure what should but be removed although I know the valve connected to the old link pipe has been taken off. I'm now curious regarding this limp mode. Please explain what I should look for?
Hi, suppose if there was any problem with your electronics detecting a problem with the EGCV i.e. if it had been removed (I know there are ways of fooling the controls into thinking the EGCV motor is still there, but don't want to go down that lane now) then you would get some sort of warning light on your dash- I don't know what error code you would get, maybe someone more seasoned on this forum could provide this info (although, I guess they are all out on their bikes enjoying this fantastic weather while me sad bugger is sitting at home reading forum posts being fairly house bound with really bad hay fever ) I reckon whatever issue you have- you have not given much info yet what exactly your symptoms are- I would check whatever connectors there are for your PC3- check out this thread: CBR1000 goes into limp home mode? Also, maybe you could reset your PC3 to defaults and see if this at least changes your symptoms- provided there is a way of restoring your current settings thereafter in case resetting to defaults did not do anything. Sorry, again I don;t have a Power Commander so could not give you any help with it.
