Hey guys & gals, I'm gonna replace stock pads with SBS items but what procedures do you follow regarding cleaning discs and bedding in? Any suggestions will be really appreciated Cheers Trev
Do not clean the disks, otherwise you will remove the layer of carbon which act as a lubricant with any new pads. Bed in new pads for around 40-60 miles at fairly moderate speeds increasing in pressure as you go. They may take at least 100 miles before they really bite and that is it really. Clean and copperslip the pistons and pads while you have the old pads out.
I put some New pads in the day before a track day, two sighting laps was all it needed to be bedded in the working well all day and been working well ever since
I have bedded pads in carefully for 30 years. In truth I don't know if this is worth doing. Does anyone know about pad manufacture, rather than anecdotal evidence. And can say with confidence why they need bedded in. I can guess at half a dozen reasons but I can't back my ideas up with facts. anyone with real knowledge? ......... Thanks, .... Mike. My starter is they need to bed into the shape of the disc.
Whenever I've put new pads on a trackbike they've been more than powerful enough after 10 laps at most. Just sayin
You just don't want to 'glaze' them which causes them to become shiny and less effective. I have a pair of EBC double H pads for sale if your interested.
So why do they only Glaze when new, why wouldn't the do that at any time? Do they come with a coating that causes the Glaze? If so why? If they do glaze will the glaze be worn off.
They're more likely to glaze when new due to any compound used in the moulding process that can act like contamination which is a common reason for glazing. If you give them a little scrub with emery paper then this will 'clean' them and assist in preventing glazing.
Depending which type of pad you use you may have little need to bed in the pad at all. Ductile metal-filaments produce a friction material with moderate base COF (coefficient of friction) for optimal initial "bite", while durable heat resistant ceramic fibers and polymeric binders reduce thermal pad decomposition and out-gassing that contribute to high temperature brake "fade". The non-ferrous metal filament matrix provides high thermal mass and ideal thermal conductivity to quickly conduct energy away from the pad to disc surface. I would suggest that therefore the only bedding in required would be to maximise the surface area (bed into the grooves and tiny wear marks on the disc surface) and to remove any film of contamination which occurs , like finger marks or grease etc... A good stamping on the brakes for a mile or 2 should do the trick. Hope this helps
Yep. Brakes have always needed a bit of time to GENTLY wear the pad into the shape of the disc. Try it too quickly and you'll tend to gouge the disc because the minute differences between the surface of the pad and the surface of the disc make a LOT of difference in terms of surface area making contact (Note: It's been a while, but I don't believe the normal materials used are that much harder now than they used to be). Once they're bedded in you have the max surface area for contact between the pad & disc. Which means lower temps (Because the friction is spread out over a much larger area) and thus better braking. As well as even wear on your discs... H
One simple reason why you can glaze new pads. On initial use and as they heat up, the resins used within manufacture leech from the pad material in the form of a gas, it is this gas that if the pad is allowed to mairtain contact with the disc, in the case of a long hard braking episode, will over heat and turn back to a solid material and glaze the surface of the pad. This is why it is recommended to bed the pads in following the standard procedure, and between braking applications allow the pad to cool, before applying again and bringing more resin to the gaseous state. Eventually no more resin turns to gas, and you can then use in the normal way. It takes no more than 10-15 mins to bed pads in correctly.
