2006 Fireblade overheating - next steps for troubleshooting?

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by BeelzebubUK, Apr 18, 2026.

  1. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

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    New sensor was fitted (see post #15) but could it be how the ecu reads the incoming signal from the sensor/puts out the reading to the display? Just thinking out loud
     
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  2. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    Good point, I might be wrong here but I think the warning light comes on @ 120c
     
  3. Broadie

    Broadie Active Member

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    Please confirm. I think you only have 1 temperature sensor and no switch?
    If this is the case the sensor tells the ecu , then ecu talks to dash and the fan relay trigger.
    ECU knows the temperature.
    You’ve swapped out the relay.
    I think you have an issue with the relay trigger , probably the crimp in relay base.
     
  4. BeelzebubUK

    BeelzebubUK Member

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    Took it out today for a proper ride and it's still no better.

    My observations for what it's worth:

    Warmed up and temp goes up to high 90's and then settles down to 95-96C. As long as I'm not in traffic or stopped it just stay at 95-96C constantly. This is worse than when I had the thermostat 90 degrees in the wrong position (it was high 80's/low 90's). Strange but maybe it being in the wrong position was just helping to mask the actual problem (ie different flow)?

    When I'm in slow traffic or stopped the temperature slowly climbs past 100 until I get going again. At one point after having to stop at a couple of traffic lights only for a minute or two it went to about 117C. I did not feel the fan coming on at any point.

    When I got home and just the minute to stop and get it in the garage it went to 120C and still no fan.

    As soon as I switched off the ignition and turned it back on the fan immediately kicks in.

    Edit : dammit forgot I already replaced the sensor as well :(
     
    #44 BeelzebubUK, Jul 25, 2026 at 4:54 PM
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2026 at 5:00 PM
  5. BeelzebubUK

    BeelzebubUK Member

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    So as above it seems electrical related somewhere.
    Is it also worth taking off the radiator and checking there are no blockages (no damage to it) or is the fact that air cooling is still working proves the radiator and water pump are still operational? When I replace the coolant pressing the lower hoses definitely forces coolant/air up to the filler cap.
     

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