Was over in Burnham-On-Crouch with some mates for breakfast on 6th May. Coming back there was a photographer snapping bikes as they went through.... He got about 6 of me as I went past: I liked this one best (after I edited it .....)
Nothing beats a photo of someone out enjoying their bike. Big up to your mates photography. A bigger up to your editing skills.
sweet pic, only one thing I would say is for him to slow the shutter a bit to give the perception of speed. how long before someone calls you a squid for the jeans lol
Cheers Chaps As long as I'm in focus then yes, so he's have to track me through the corner to have the background and wheels give motion blur. But you can really only do it if your almost parallel and, as you can see, I'm heading straight at him so motion tracking won't work (on 1 shot it would, but he's trying to sell 6 ) I could put a motion blur in post if I wanted, but I kinda like it as-is The Jeans are RST Kevlar + armour Jeans.... aaaa thank yaaaa *bows* Sure. Do you use Adobe Lightroom? (the explanation will make more sense if you do)
Alreety then... It went something like this: Bumped up the exposure about 2/3 a stop Removed Chromatic Abberations Dropped the highlights to get detail back in the bright areas Added an 'S' curve to balance the contrast and make it 'pop' a bit Boosted Clarity and saturation a bit Upped the yellow+orange channels to bring up the wheels a bit more Added a gentle grad filter to the BL and BR and TR of the image (1/3, 2/3 and 1/8 stop exposure drop) Spot correction on the headlight (100% desaturated) Spot correction on the visor to up clarity and exposure spot correction on helmet + jacket to up the clarity and boost shadow detail Noise reduction Added a smidge sharpening Done Takes about 5-10 minutes to do. There's no right way to do it... just how I feel at that moment. Would probably do it differently today if I started from scratch
this is what I meant with the motion blur,not going fast but with the slow shutter and pan.this is raw from the camera.
Yes, and the Duke is almost broadside to the camera and probably running a consistent speed. + you're on the inside of the corner so you can track for longer. From the outside of a bend you'll only get the apex if you want motion blur. If the guy at Burnham was photographing for himself then he may have done some tracking shots and maybe got one that was pin sharp. But he was shooting the approach and apex rather than just apex for a very simple reason... Capitalism vs Art His objective as a freelancer is to sell as many images as he can. More (sharp/sellable) images = a much higher chance of selling one .. or two ... or the whole 6 image approach and tip in.
That shot im only doing about 40 low f stop and slow shuttter And the image of speed is created. I do it all th time on the slow down laps at road races, It wont matter what angle as its the wheels you want To see blurred when doing action shots rather than Freeze frame. If he is selling them he should be trying To make them look more action packed rather than point And shot on auto lol
Curious. What settings would you use on the same rig? Nikon D700 + 400mm lens. Lying on the grass, no monopod. To give you an idea of the light available, his settings were on manual and 1/1000s @ ISO 400 + f/10 on a 35mm sensor.
I would have used about F4.5 to 6 max ISO-200 and around 1/640. I know this setting as I use it as my base setting for all bike shots then adjust according to light conditions but I try to keep a low f stop for a narrow depth of field that gives the speed illusion and then as low a ISO so that I can crop the photos without too much noise. oh to add the pic above was a nikon D80 F4.5 1/500th ISO 400, that was my photographer mate that took it.he got me into the cam's around the same time as I got that duke and he said to me the main point are, histograms, shoot dark/flat and fix in post production, always us the lowest ISO you can and for bikes,people, objects (unless massive) use a real low F stop.oh and never have the lens full in or out, always take it full then back off slightly.he told me why but I cant for the life of me remember why now...too many Guinness lol
The settings you suggest won't work and you're 1 stop overexposed + shooting dark is an old theory that doesn't hold up with modern digital cameras. I can hear people falling asleep out there.... If you want to continue then drop me a PM
You shoulda spent more time Callum editing ya shot so your lean angle was not left in the 'Premier League Chicken Strips Camp'!
how do you figure that one out, and according to most pro digital togs they all say shoot slightly underexposed as some lcd screens on the cam show a good shot for you to get home and find its slightly overexposed which cannot be fixed.also underexposed and flat records more details.unless your using bracketing in every shot or you have a laptop handy to check the pics as you take them are you going to risk that one off pic being overexposed? here's a shot using near them exact settings...I dont see it over exposed?
