Just finished first service in SP using Motul 7100 10W-30 4T, however sportsbikeshop supplied me with 7100 10W-40 even though I'd ordered 10W-30, however I didn't realise it was the wrong oil until I was topping it up after starting the engine. I do have some Silkolene PRO 4 Energy 10w-30 Full Synthetic, should I leave the 10-40 in for now and change at 4000 miles or after my first track day or drain it out now and put the Silkolene in?
I ran Castrol Racing 10W-40 in my bike for 2 years (changing every 3K miles/1 year) with no problems at all mate. I only changed to 10W-30 last weekend.
The local honda dealers reconed that unless you have ran 10/30 sully synth from the start its likely to cause leaks where they were none before if changing from 10/40 so I changed to castrol racing r1 10/40 fully synth. They had done all the servicing prior to me buying it and had used castrol r1 10 /40 semi synth......they reconed the only difference was that fully synth lasts longer i.e degrades slower and is better suited to hard riding track days etc. RR8 btw 15000 miles. Hope that helps / makes sense. Oh yeah they also said that 10 / 30 is only better for cold starts only really having an advantage if you use high ish revs straight away on cold mornings. So by that logic I would say let the bike warm up slow on tick over with 10 /40.......best practice for engine maintenance known to man.
Hmmmm...Not sure I agree with what you have been told by the dealers there mate, Both have the same cold operating temprature range thats the 10w in both oils listed so should give the same cold weather starting protection. Where they do differ is in there summer or hot operating temprature range. The 30 weight oil is normally thinner in its viscosity which gets even thinner during the hot temps involved with summer (OK miby not in the UK but rest of europe is advised 10w40 oil). The 10w30 will become dangerously thin at cooler ambient temps than the 10w40 oil and the same would be true if comparing 10w40 with 10w50 oil.
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at a cold, winter (W) temperature to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a low viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIs are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature.
Your talking more sense there fella......much better explained......guess thats why more chance of leaks with 10 / 30 when it gets hot Still I hope that I have not advised wrongly i'e that 10 40 is ok for rieterich. Please correct if I have
leave the bike with whats in till next service it will be fine, Honda only recently changed there mind about what oil the blade should be running from 10w40 to 10w30 which I had read was due to the 10w30 giving slightly better overall MPG due to being thinner in viscosity. The honda users manual will give you a chart showing the oil ratings and what the specified oil is suited for what ambient temps. In fact here is the users manual page.
It certainly likes this oil, really smooth power delivery with silky smooth gear changing so it's staying in for now
