Right people, heres a question for the mechanically minded. I removed the rear wheel from my 2012 (puncture fix) and then replaced with no problems. BUT...you knew there would be one! Do you have ay special tips or techniques for pulling the rear wheel back equally? i.e. the side with the chain will always stop but the right side will drift on. Obviously I semi tighten the axle bolt and pull unequally on the left side of the tyre while bitch slapping the right side to make it butt up to the chain adjuster. Ok this works but really!....is there a clever technique or tip Im missing?? Thanks
Best tip I can give is to use something that lifts the wheel up to the right level, a block of wood, a wedge or something similar, I have some old shelves from a CD rack, 4 of them are just right that fit under the wheel and help it be at the right level to fit the axle back in.
I use a spade it's just right nice wedge shape and by pulling it either towards you or away from you ..you can get it spot on.
Those are useful, cheers But what i really meant was for when the axle is back in and your trying to pull the wheel back in the chain adjusters. cheers tho, liking the spade for its simplicity, I normally put the wheel on my foot to lift into position for pushing axle through.
Spot on Giv, I on the other hand being more of a cultured gent use a shovel......I also grunt and swear a lot while doing it
I think you are doing it ok anyway I just put it back as it come out and prior to tightening up just give the tyre a tap with a rubber mallet but to be honest it seems to sit ok against the adjusters ok without. When I do the chain slackness adjustments I have a 6 inch steel rule with milli meters on it I lie on the floor put it up against the underside of the swingarm and slide it back and forth until I can get a reading .say 40 or 50 or 60mm spot on the centre of a rivet then I pull down on the chain and it may go down 5 mm so that's 5 mm then go back pushing up the chain and it may go up another 25 mm so you know if you start at 50mm to the centre of a rivet and add the 5 mm down plus the 25mm up ( from the rivet) the total slack in the chain is 30 mm . Nothing to do with your question of course but part of prattling about with the rear wheel .
I tend to check/adjust the chain tension before removing the wheel, then i can butt the wheel against the adjuster by hitting the tyre or axle ends with a rubber mallet. This removes any gap before tightening up the axle bolt.
In order to make the wheel push up tight against the adjusters for measuring I put the shank of a screwdriver in between the rear sprocket and the chain and then roll the wheel forward to bind it all up.
Yeah remember the block of wood! Unlike me I had it next to me then forgetting to place it under the wheel I proceed to take the rear wheel off resulting in a 8 inch score in my lovely gold painted wheel as it caught the brake caliper on the way down when I pulled the axle spindle out Yup you live and learn!!....
