Evn peeps, Have a 2007, owned since new in the fast HRC colours, Cheshire base but Jock in heart The mighty blade has been in storage for 18 x months so looking for some tips on helping us get back on the road. Being a sweaty sock i dont want to be lashing out too much mind? My mechanical experience & sympathy = absolutely rock all not looking for split second difference just advice from knowledgeable enthusiasts in making the mighty one even more mighty !(#thefcukersfastenoughalready) ! As i said dont need the bolts drilled to save weight, i will just have 1 x less big Mac per day, what i need is practical help. No real idea what i need TBH- appreciate all and any help, including where i can take her for help BR DM
Welcome Dave My advise......leave it as it is, it looks mint.I had the same model still wish I'd kept hold of it.
Thanks red5 Apart from a few stone chips, a micron and some levers it it is as it left the shop...........
Ps - need some help with riding gear as well, not sure if this is the right place to post ( help please )
Dave, I was lucky enough to buy a 2007 brand new in the Repsol colour. Like red5, I wish I kept hold of that bike too. Really nice blade mate.
Hi and welcome dave, as the guys have said it is a nice machine but if you are intent on changes there is plenty of advice on the forum and a lot of very knowledgeable people on here to help
Radiator guard and Gilles Gear Shaft Support are two good mods that provide a lot of benefit and require minimal spannering.
Welcome Dave. I've got the same blade which I bought last year. Bought it completely standard apart from R and Gs all round. Only mods I'm planning on doing are fitting an akro exhaust, double bubble screen and maybe a Glpro (gear indicator). Other than that I plan to leave it pretty much stock. Some great guys on here who will give you loads of advice on anything mechanical so just shout if you need it
Seeing as the bike has been in storage for the past 18 months I'd be changing the fluids first (brake/clutch) and engine oil/filter. All simple jobs lots of how to vids on YouTube. As previously mentioned worth getting a radiator guard fitted. Having your standard suspension serviced and setup makes a big improvement to the handling and well worth considering. Changing the rear tyre from a 190/50 to a 190/55 is also worth doing. Makes the bike easier to tip into corners. Are you using the bike solely for the road or r u looking to take it on track?
Thanks all for the big welcome, much appreciated ! Like the rad guard thought - is there a make to go for i wonder or any will do ? sorry to be ignorant but whats a gear shaft support and what benifit will it bring ? ( guess it may support a gear shaft, whatever that is lol) i was intending getting the oil changed etc, but hadn't thought about brake fluid ....... it did have some new fluid in a couple of years back, does it go off after a while ?? on that subject the reason the new brake fluid & new pads went in was the 'spongy' front brake (it went back to the bar but passed MOTs and did brake ok ish, or maybe i got used to it ? ! new fluid didnt change the feel, can anyone recommend how to get the 'feel' back. local garage says "its soft but ok, they are all like that and it brakes ok on the rolling road" however when my mates pull on the lever they all piss their sides at how far it goes back.... i'm sure one of these times it wont work !! suspension is standard but been set up for a heavier framed person by Mr Mick Grant ( ex TT racer) at an Oulton Park track day. Think it had a new rear tyre just before i parked her up, but will look at the different profile next time around Used on road mainly but it has done half a dozen track days and may do a few more this year (hopefully) Thanks again all, i will have a look round the site and sure i will have to ask many more questions DM
If the lever feels spongy and is coming back to the bar chances are there is air in the system. Try bleeding the brakes again and don't forget to bleed the master cylinder too. Are you running standard or braided brake lines?
just standard mate, did think if braided would help the situation. one guy i met did suggest bleeding them up near the bars ? rather than at the brakes where i think the guy that done the fluid change did it? ( sorry i only ride it i have no fookin clue about the mechanics lol)
Braided brake lines will give a noticeable improvement over standard rubber hoses. Bleeding the brakes is a simple job so don't be put off. There are loads of 'how to' vids on YouTube to help you.
Welcome mate. Have the same 2007 model but in repsol colours and i love it. Mods? Well gradually i am changing the brakes and suspension to something better than stock so it will be an improvement. Like others said, exhaust, braided lines, etc...are some of the few mods everybody does depending on the level of riding..
Rad guards is basically how much you want to pay and a look you like. The Gilles helps support the gear shaft and reduces movement/flex in the wrong directions, which helps the gearbox and also makes gear changes feel more positive.
Appreciate all your comments and great starters for 10, thank you. As for doing any work myself, honest i need to get a wee man to do it for me as I'm convinced I don't actually have hands with fingers like most.... these a more like hoofs and behave as such. I struggle to dip the oil without tying a mattress to the far side LOL cheers all
Greeting fella... I've got an RR7 HRC too... although I recently fitted a chinese cheapy fairing (matt black ) to keep the OE fairings pristine... safely tucked away in the attic. Allowed me to fit proper R&G crash bungs, as there's no way I was going to drill holes in the Honda fairings! Definitely recommend a Gilles Shift Support... slides over the gear shift shaft and prevents it flexing. Makes gear changes much more positive, especially if you're of the lead-footed persuasion. Also recommend some braided lines. I fitted HEL, and with the OE lines at a decade old now, they ain't going to be holding pressure like they used to. And your mate is right about bleeding at the top... after bleeding normally I finish off with a final bleed at the banjo on the master cylinder. Then strap the lever back overnight to let any last air make its way out. You say you've got a Micron... have you had it re-mapped to suit? I found the standard fuelling isn't perfect, and when you fit an aftermarket can, it's even worse. A PC5 and a decent map on a dyno, and its like a new bike! Mine is so smooth now, it's almost boring!
