07 died, please help

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Alex Ulbrich, Mar 30, 2021.

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  1. Alex Ulbrich

    Alex Ulbrich New Member

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    Hello, sorry for the long read, but I want people to know what I have tried so far.

    I have an 07 CBR1000. A month ago, it died while I was riding it. Gauge cluster was still on and the red indicator light came on, but the engine cut out. Cranked, but would not start. When cycling the key, the fuel pump would not cycle as usual.

    First thought was pump went out. I got my bike back to the auto shop I work at, and put power directly to the fuel pump with a power probe. The pump worked. Tried cranking the engine while manually putting power to the punp, in case a wire was bad. Still nothing.

    Next step was checking injector signal with a Noid light kit. Injectors weren't getting signal when cranking the engine over. At this point, I suspected the ECU. That's an easy enough fix, so I ordered a used one off ebay. A few days later, I got the replacement ECU. First I tried starting my bike before swapping ECU's and it wouldn't go. Plugged the replacement in and the bike started right up. I don't know why, but out of curiosity, I swapped the original ECU back in, and the bike also started fine. I've rode it for a few weeks now without issue, but it died again today while moving. Once I got it back home, I swapped the ebay ECU back in, and it still wouldn't start. Haven't re-tested injector signal yet with a light, but the fuel pump does not cycle with either ECU.

    Unless I'm wrong, there's no way to "scan" 07's for codes if it's a sensor or something. I have heard of some bikes using an indicator light to flash in blips to tell you the code it is setting. That would be nice. I have two complete engines for CBR1000's in my garage right now. One is an 04, and the other is an 06. The 06 should be about the same, so I'm about ready to start swapping sensors over and "throwing parts at it" until the problem is solved. If I knew it was a specific sensor, I would just buy a new one.

    Any advice for further diagnosis?
     
  2. Lock

    Lock Active Member

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    Would check its not a wiring issue - had a bike once that a garage did flame rings, cars, ecu (all under warrenty) due to miss fire. Every time they did something it cured it for a week or two but would come back. One day cleaning noticed a wire dangling on chain, traced it back to ecu. Repaired it, cable tied it up never had the problem again! Everytime garage did something, wiring got pulled up, few weeks later this wire had dropped and would earth out when suspension compressed over bumps and cause a miss fire - simples in the end but lucky find.

    Only other thing is do you have a power commander or similar? Pull it out and see if problem still there
     
  3. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    Basic i know....have you checked the kill switch and side stand switch ok?
     
    #3 CharlieR85, Mar 30, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2021
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  4. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    You can try the red topped diagnostic connector either under the main seat or behind the upper left fairing panel. Either Google which 2 pins to short out and reading the flashing sequence or take the bike to a garage and they'll read the code for you.

    As for it not firing, if the fuel pump is not priming with the bike in neutral, side stand up and kill switch on, then I'd start with the right hand bar controls as these give problems and can cut the ignition. Also the large connector to the headlight loom can be an issue where it connects to the tilt switch.
     
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  5. Alex Ulbrich

    Alex Ulbrich New Member

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    Thanks for the tips guys, it was the kill switch on the right handlebar! I checked the wiring diagram, and the kill switch is a "dead man switch" that cuts power to the fuel pump and injectors. After flipping the switch back and forth several times, I was able to get my bike to start. Flipping the switch while the bike is running kills the engine, but the gauge cluster stays on and the red indicator light comes on. When the switch is in the off position, the fuel pump will not prime when cycling the key.


    I ordered a new OEM Honda switch for only $42 shipped. Temporarily, I took my switch casing apart and directly soldered the wires connected to the switch. I've rode my bike around all day, starting it 7 times today without problems.


    Once again, thanks for the help!
     
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  6. bazzashadow

    bazzashadow Elite Member

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    Nice reply
    A lot of people have a problem, ask on here how to fix it and then never tell how they done it.
    Great help for anyone in the future
     
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  7. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    Yep, right hand bar control wiring. That's the 2nd one on here this year.
     
  8. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    I nearly didn't suggest kill switch after reading you've already tested at injectors, fuel pump and changed an ECU....:confused:
     
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  9. Alex Ulbrich

    Alex Ulbrich New Member

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    Yeah, the kill switch just slipped my mind. I'm used to working on cars at work every day, not bikes. Didn't even think about the switch. I'm sure glad I asked on the forums!
     
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  10. Big A

    Big A Active Member

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    After a full strip down and every sensor replaced at enormous cost experience has told me first thing to change with this type of problem is that right hand set of controls... even if it isn't the problem at the moment it will be tomorrow...
     

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