Had a hot starting issue on 2007 blade and noticed charging was not good, barely charging above 12v on tick over but 13.5 or so at revs. Checked the RR and by the tests on Electrexworld where it had come from it showed it as bad(no measure on the diode test across one of the circuits) Unit was only 18 months old but no warranty Got a second hand Mossfat off ebay and although the RR test wasn't perfect (was getting 120 reading across one of the circuits instead of 350 to 550) seemed to be charging fine at tick over and revs That has been on for few hundred miles no issue, but today on way back from ride everything on the dash went out, stopped and no power. Lithium nattery was reading like 7v and state of discharge - hope its not sagged! Anyway bump started bike and got it the rest of the 30 miles back. Checked charging and not much happening. RR test is showing its knackered. Has checked stator and all seems fine with that - even looked at it and no burnt out or shorted bits So question 8s unlucky and second hand one seemed on its way out anyway or another culprit? Not sure whether to go for another second hand or new one - new are anywhere from £35 to £150 - don't want to spend that much and find it just goes pop again in a few hundred miles
Check your manual; I expect to see 14V at idle, up to 14.5 @ high rpm. Poor you; if you have an LFP battery. From what I have read, they need 14v+ to get fully charged. So I hope it has not been damaged. 7v is like zero state of charge! I am surprised your battery BMS has not shut it down (usually at v) to safeguard it! Is it a shorai by any chance?
Got the new RR today, rechecked tests on stator, connected all up, ran for a bit and checked charge rate but nothing much above 12v. Rechecked stator tests and failed continuity to ground and was only outputting 16v AC - so looks like that's shafted as well. Only had it off about 300 miles ago to change cover and all looked good with it. Oh well, will order one of them up as well now! Hopefully will all be fixed
Was using a Honda RR - Mosfet (think it was from a 2012). The battery is a Shido connect, so has battery management system that should sort out overcharge or discharge conditions. Have got the old Yuasa back on at the moment until all problems sorted out. The Electrex World website specifies their RRs shouldn't be used with Lithium, guess that's two way - can go higher than voltage lithium can take (although the battery management system of newer better quality lithium should handle that) and I suppose if battery shuts down charge then energy has to be discipated somewhere so does it shunt back to rectifier? Ordered up and electrosport stator from Mandp for £100 delivered - will give that a go and hopefully all OK again
Well this confirms the stator is knackered. Looks like the load test showed up the fault. Didn't look like that when I changed the stator cover over. Got one on order so hopefully back up and running soon.
It’s the well trodden path, RR goes, then the genny takes a hit and battery fries, quite often due to poor/corroded ground somewhere along the chain. I wire all older Hondas direct from the o/p +ve & -ve of the RR to the battery with a 30A inline fuse on the +ve, not sure if that works on the more modern bikes with BMS and the like, but on simpler systems, takes out all the wiring and grounding crap, decent thermal paste on the back of the RR, never see an issue after that.
Fitted new stator and rectifier but charging still pretty poor. Barely 12v at tick over, going up to 14v at 3-4k rpm. Checked stator output and 10v AC at tick over, and ~45v at 3-4k rpm. All grounds and cables look good. Messaged Electrosport and they got back to me really quickly. They said voltage is low in general for sports bikes but in line with post recall (flywheel) 2004/2007 blade. Not sure if that's just saying not their problem, guess I'll just have to ride around for a bit and see how things go - and keep the revs up!
Unfortunately I don’t have the exact bike; unless the generator is driven off the flywheel and the latter has been reduced in diameter, I can understand the generator spinning slower and giving lower output. Has your bike been modified? Have you checked the service manual for charging test and output specs? I would be surprised if it’s not between 14.5&13.5at all times and the OEM battery is not gel or AGM is your idle speed correct? Lithium battery needs close to 14.5 v to fully charge. The volts you have cannot do this. Maybe 80%max?
If your getting at the RR output 12VDC at tick over and 14VDC at 4K, unless I am misreading it, what’s the issue? That’s pretty normal behaviour for an RR
Tickover output just seems a bit low, barely giving charge to hold battery at 12v - but then again who wants to be out and on tickover! Haynes and Honda manual says regulated voltage <15.5v at 5000rpm no lower or tickover limit given, so will just see how it goes.
Admittedly different bike, but have an Electrex RR on my NC30, around 12ish at tickover and 14.5 at chop point around 4.5K, battery always fully charged after running with lights on during a ride, and battery conditioner quickly goes to maintain status on reconnection, and that’s with 30 year electrics, so I know it’s totally different bike but have no issues. Admittedly the wiring and grounding are tip top, and I’ve wired direct from op of RR to battery as mentioned before.
Cheers Kentblade - gives confidence all should be OK. With new reg/rec and stator all should be good for a bit! Was thinking of tidying the wiring up a bit (shortening as quite long) and putting new waterproof connectors on (as old white Honda one are a bit naff) - seen some AMP Tyco Superseal, they do different connectors for wire thickness so should be rated to cope with the ampage (approx <25 amps I believe). Should stop fiddling and just get riding!
