Snapped exhaust stud

Hi all,
Trying to carry out the ABS bleed and i've managed to snap and exhaust stud. Probably have about 10mm sticking out of the block. I've got a stud extractor but worried i'm going to shear it off. Anyone got any advice to loosen it up? I'm soaking it in wd40. Going to give it a couple of taps with hammer before I try and get it out. Anything else?

Also still dealing with the fact I have to remove the exhaust to properly bleed the brakes!

Thanks,

Paul

 

Cheers. I've got the type that looks like a socket with a hole in it. I didn't know you could get that clamp type version. Might get one of those as it looks better for short studs.

 

You would be better using Plusgas or GT85 rather than WD40 as it is not a penetrating oil but s more of a corrosion inhibitor than a true penetrating oil. WD-40 is also a water displacer (hence the WD), keeping moisture away from sensitive metal surfaces, and it easily dissolves grease, grime, sap and residue on a variety of parts. But if you use this spray lubricant to try and loosen stuck fasteners you may be disappointed.

 

Mouse Milk and weld a nut on it.

 

I used to earn a little on the side working at a Porsche garage removing sheared studs, I did as Broadie says TIG weld a nut on then wait until it cools enough to have strength then undo, Porsche used to reduce the stud thickness after the thread to reduce weight but this made them shear easily

 

Probably a bit late, but I am sure there was a post on here with someone using a long extension bar to bleed the brakes

 

This is what Swiss T wrote
You can comfortably see & get a tool on the bleed nipple without removing the headers or heatshield. I use a long 1/2 inch scocket extension with a crows foot spanner on the end (accessed from the left hand side); this leaves ample clearance to attached a hose to the nipple using long reach pliers. You dont need the hose if you time it right & dont mind cleaning up the spilt fluid.

 

So. This all went wrong. I bought a proper penetrating fluid and soaked it. Then when I tried the stud extractor it just slipped on the stud. I welded a nut on the stud and it sheared near the head when I tried to unscrew it. So against all common sense I drilled a hole in it and tried to use an ez out. This snapped and left a load of super hard steel in the middle of the stud. I tried to drill the ez out with a few drill bits and and tried to use a carbide burr in a Dremel. No chance. In the end I got a "rescue bit" from the US. Used my dremel and it smashed the ez out to bits in about 5 minutes. Used it to remove the rest of the stud. Re-tapped and all good. So things I learnt/re-learnt.

1. Never use ez outs.
2. If you ignore no.1 and snap an ez out or a tap then look up rescue bit and give it a go.
3. If you can avoid taking off the exhaust manifold, leave it alone.

 

4 : a little bit of ACF50 and a brush every wash goes a long way.

 

Been there myself
Best try to crack the nuts while engine is hot or heat with plumbers blow touch, then remove

 

I used to do work for a Porsche garage removing sheared studs as they did not lube the studs during assembly and they also necked them down above the thread, I normally TIG welded a nut on and they came out, I have also made drilling jigs so the drills don't wander, then carefully used ez out, I was never beaten but some are challenging, but as stated do not snap hardened bits in it