Hello people, it's been a little while since I've posted here as I've been busy trying to bankrupt myself (long story). Anyway hope all the UK-based people on the forum are doing well and looking forward to the warmer (& hopefully dryer) weather here in the UK. So, as the title suggests, I write another post in the hope that someone here might be able to help. My bike's sat in the garage for a few weeks and has developed a fault code when I started it up. DTC Error Code 35 - EGCA Malfunction which could apparently be due to: (a) Loose of poor contract of the EGCA (exhaust gas control actuator) connector (b) ECV (exhaust control valve) or its circuit malfunction, or (c) EGCA lock Bike is all 100% original, owned from new. Probably has fuel that's around 2 months old in it, but was premium unleaded and a full tank (can't see why this would cause a problem). The symptoms are the bike is really sluggish at low RPM but fine otherwise. I think the ECU is doing something here to "keep me safe" perhaps as I'm at the mercy of the throttle-by-wire (rather than old-school cable). Anyway, having got my eyes (not hands) on a service manual I've been able to check the following: (1) Check that the EGCA motor operates - having taken the cover off the thing that is driven by the EGCA motor to open and close the exhaust flap. (2) Check that the exhaust flag itself isn't seized - by rotating the nut with the engine running and the EGCA cable disconnected. (3) Reset the DTC fault code using the usual shorting method. (4) Disconnecting the EGCA connector and getting DTC error code 34 as would be expected. The error code reappears as soon as the engine is started (well about 15 seconds after starting) - bike is on the ground and stationary. I've made sure the battery is fully charged and outputting a good 13.2 Volts. I've taken the bike on a 30-45 mins ride but the error code doesn't clear and the bike is annoying to ride as it pulls away like a lawn mower. Owing to financial circumstances, really don't want to have to pay for a Honda dealer to look into it, but given my previous electrical woes (all of which were sorted with a brand new wiring loom), I'm worried this might be a very expensive repair (from a labour charge/diagnostic perspective). Thoughts, ideas and comments welcomed as always!
Make sure the servo electrical connection is good. It plugs in under the seat near the battery. Maybe worth unplugging it and reconnecting. You could also try a Servo Eliminator to see if that clears the code.
Hi Buz - thanks for thinking about this. Yes it does, it appears to operate normally as far as I can tell, revving the engine beyond a certain RPM and I see it open up further.
Thanks, yes I have disconnected cleaned and reconnected the plug under the seat - all pins look good and not corroded or bent. I had ordered a servo eliminator from "UK Race Support" but then cancelled it as it wouldn't really do what I wanted long term. Although seeing if the code cleared would perhaps be useful I agree. There is a second hand servo on eBay for £48 which I'm tempted to buy but cash is really tight at the moment. Thanks for the thoughts / ideas. Please do keep them coming!
A quick update. After having reset the DTC error, stripped down the EGCA and cleaned all connectors I thought I'd resolved the problem. However, I've got the same issue as reported on another forum; it's fine when I start the bike from cold, but if I start it from warm/hot - e.g. after stopping for fuel, then the error reoccurs. The solution posted on the other forum was an entirely new exhaust section that includes the EGCA / exhaust flap part. I've been in touch with my local Honda dealer to find out whether this is a known failure/serviceable part, or whether I'm looking at (a) entirely new exhaust, or (b) cut and weld in a new part.. Both are filling me with dread as to the potential cost. Only positive so far is that at least the occurrence of the error at the moment is fairly predictable, as it makes the bike dangerous to ride when the fault occurs as the initial acceleration is lawn-mower like until around 4/5000rpm when it's rocket-like. Not fun pulling out onto a busy roundabout!
It isn't really a solution to the problem, but I'd remove the original exhaust and valve, replace it with a new end can and get it mapped. I had a Scorpion end can on my SC77, and after having it mapped in ran much better than it ever did with the original exhaust and map.
I think the valve may be in the wrong position. It sounds like it's almost completely closed which is causing too much exhaust back pressure until the 4,200 rpm or so is reached at which point the valve fully opens. The service manual shows how to adjust the EGCA so the pointer lines up correctly.
Thanks but I'm looking for the cheapest solution at the moment as I'm in a bit of a tight spot. It might be that someone up above has blessed my exhaust whilst I was away, as it's started behaving itself over the past few journeys so I'm optimistic it was just a bit sticky after sitting for a couple of months.
I did try various positions with the motor power / leads disconnected but as far as I could tell, it was fully closed at low rpm and then opening up above ~4k so I think it was just a bit sticky from sitting (even though I had manually rotated the flap a few times to see if that was the issue). If the fault reoccurs I think I'll just swap the entire end can section out for a new/used part. Thanks for your thoughts.
You bet. Weird how it's coming and going, like with the ambient temperature. Anyhow, the only way to tell if the EGCA is positioned correctly is to connect the shorting tool to the DTC, turning on the ignition switch (key), and flipping on the red start/run switch to the run position (don't start). The tool is about $25.00. You can also use the tool as the expensive solution to clear DTC codes. The muffler/can/EGCA section new costs $2,200. E-bay is your friend; I got one for $90. The servo motor check is easy: turn ignition key to on, listen for the sound, and watch the EGCA turn. Old fuel is a problem, but more importantly quality of fuel which varies by vendor. A fuel stabilizer might be in order for fuel remaining in the tank for long time periods. Use the most expense fuel from integrated oil companies to ensure the best quality (lowest water content). I changed from cheaper premium to more expensive premium fuel and eliminated engine problems which always occurred after refueling.
So it's been a while, bike has now covered around 25k miles, and it's definitely a sign that I'm getting old, but I've been scratching my head for the past few days with the return of the DTC 35 error code and PGM-FI and traction control warnings illuminated. Unusually for me, I'd left the bike garaged for the past 3 months as the mud on the roads and potholes around where I am in Kent are just insanely dangerous. I remembered I'd had an issue before, and amazingly searching for it brought me back to my own thread and I thought I'd update this as I'd nearly gave in and took it to a garage.. So, in case it's useful for anyone else with a stock (no modifications whatsoever from new) CBR1000R-AH (2017-2019 MY I guess), then this is how I've resolved the issue - which from the DTC 35 error code is a fault with the exhaust valve / servo. If I had more time I'd add some photos, but hopefully the description helps. The symptoms: - After clearing the fault codes all is usually ok until the bike's RPM reaching around 4-5k where the exhaust valve would open - DTC 35 error code and PGM-FI and T illuminate - Bike is a bit dead at low RPM but still goes ok-ish. The fix: - Do not have the ignition on - Remove one nut & bolt from the exhaust valve cover (8mm spanner/socket), - loosen the rear nut & bolt from the exhaust valve cover but do not full undo - this allows the cover to rotate so you can see the inner wheel and steel cables - with a 10mm spanner, rotate the wheel to move the exhaust valve (you'll hear the servo motor making a sound as you do this) back and forth to check there are no issues - it's fiddly to do, but the wheel should move smoothly albeit a little stiff - turn the ignition on - and the servo should move the valve to its default position (valve closed) - turn the ignition off and with a 10mm spanner move the exhaust valve wheel as far back as it'll turn anti-clockwise - clear any fault codes, and start the engine This appears to have solved my problem. So I'm guessing, when the bike is left for a while, the exhaust valve doesn't quite fully close or sticks such that it doesn't fully close after starting the bike and this causes some sort of calibration issue with the bike's exhaust valve servo that leads to a fault code being generated. Hopefully useful to someone else one day Glad to see the website fixed too - well done team!
So it's been a while, bike has now covered around 25k miles, and it's definitely a sign that I'm getting old, but I've been scratching my head for the past few days with the return of the DTC 35 error code and PGM-FI and traction control warnings illuminated. Unusually for me, I'd left the bike garaged for the past 3 months as the mud on the roads and potholes around where I am in Kent are just insanely dangerous. I remembered I'd had an issue before, and amazingly searching for it brought me back to my own thread and I thought I'd update this as I'd nearly gave in and took it to a garage.. So, in case it's useful for anyone else with a stock (no modifications whatsoever from new) CBR1000R-AH (2017-2019 MY I guess), then this is how I've resolved the issue - which from the DTC 35 error code is a fault with the exhaust valve / servo. If I had more time I'd add some photos, but hopefully the description helps. The symptoms: - After clearing the fault codes all is usually ok until the bike's RPM reaching around 4-5k where the exhaust valve would open - DTC 35 error code and PGM-FI and T illuminate - Bike is a bit dead at low RPM but still goes ok-ish. The fix: - Do not have the ignition on - Remove one nut & bolt from the exhaust valve cover (8mm spanner/socket), - loosen the rear nut & bolt from the exhaust valve cover but do not full undo - this allows the cover to rotate so you can see the inner wheel and steel cables - with a 10mm spanner, rotate the wheel to move the exhaust valve (you'll hear the servo motor making a sound as you do this) back and forth to check there are no issues - it's fiddly to do, but the wheel should move smoothly albeit a little stiff - turn the ignition on - and the servo should move the valve to its default position (valve closed) - turn the ignition off and with a 10mm spanner move the exhaust valve wheel as far back as it'll turn anti-clockwise - clear any fault codes, and start the engine This appears to have solved my problem. So I'm guessing, when the bike is left for a while, the exhaust valve doesn't quite fully close or sticks such that it doesn't fully close after starting the bike and this causes some sort of calibration issue with the bike's exhaust valve servo that leads to a fault code being generated. Hopefully useful to someone else one day Glad to see the website fixed too - well done team!
