Anyone else had this issue and can point me in areas to investigate? The bike will very intermittently cut out when off throttle or slowing down. It acts like it’s stalled, the engine light will come on. I normally pull the clutch in and hit the starter button and she fires back up and will ride normally for the rest of the session. it’s now getting more frequent and has happened, once, on teach of the last 2 ride outs. Getting a bit worried as I do track days and last thing I want is her to cut out rolling into a corner, more so for anyone behind me. I’m going to look at the usual suspects in this order: 1) kick stand switch 2) fuel relay fuse 3) rectifier anything else I should look at - fuel pump? Or any other known issues?
sorry mate - didn’t quite understand your reply. What do I need to do or look at in terms of the yellow negative block? Is it located in/at main fuse area?
Yellow plug is a bussbar to common up the negatives I think it’s on top of the air box or under the clutch lever side fairing. Sorry can’t remember exactly. Is there a tilt switch? Can you work out exactly when it happens off throttle, on the brakes/ any brake, is the tps correct. Does it only happen after hard riding. You really need to be able to replicate the fault to understand it. I’d probably clean all electrical plugs to start with. Sorry I don’t have an exact answer
What @Broadie said is always a good place to start, a corroded connector is never a good thing. The tilt switch sits behind the dashboard, fairly easy to test and see if there is a problem. If the rectifier is faulty, it will either no longer charge the battery and once the engine cuts out won't start up again because the battery is drained or it will no longer regulate the electrical current and could fry all of the electronics. You could try to swap the relays inside the fuse box, I think they are identical, but I'm not completely sure. If they are, you can switch the relay for the small fan with the relay for the fuel pump and go for a ride, just a thought. I hope it helps!
Not trying to discourage you in any way, just a little story: Three years ago I bought a 2012 Ah Wan (made by the Japanese piano company ) from a friend. It was a track only bike with racing wiring loom and racing ecu which had an electrical fault and the fairing needed some work. The bike would sometimes refuse to start, but sometimes it did start and behaved like it should, also sometimes it started and would go to 4000 rpm for 10-20 seconds and then stop running. So the idea was to fix it and sell it on. Not being the sharpest tool in the box I thought I would tackle the biggest job first, the fairing. Little did I know then... The whole project took a couple of months where the small electrical problem quickly started to dwarf the many hours of sanding. Sometimes I thought I found the problem because the bike would run normally after starting it 10 times, the 11th time it would refuse to run or run at 4000 rpm and this happened quite a few times. I believe I am very calm, patient and I don't give up easily, but this drove me to a point where I almost attacked the bike with a big hammer From time to time I had to walk away and let it rest for a couple of days In the end I found the problem, a broken wire packed together with a bunch of other wires near the throttle bodies and well secured so it was not likely to suffer from vibrations, but still.... it did... If the bike had a standard wiring loom, I would have fitted a used one and called it a day, but sadly that wasn't an option. Anyway, I hope you are spared from any of this. May the Holy Honda be with you
hi,no not really. Checked the obvious stuff - connectors, side stand switch etc. then went out for a ride and it didn’t fail at all. Not been out since due to weather so not really sure I’ve resolved it. one thing I did forget to mention is that I cut into the rear indicator wiring to make it quick release for track days. Couldn’t be a cause? I wouldn’t think the light wiring would effect ignition ???
Everything that is engine related operates independently from the lights, dashboard, horn.... There are separate fuses and relays for each system and again within each system. For example, the cooling fans are part of the engine system and they each have their seperate fuse and seperate relay, so that if one of them fails, the other one will still get you home
