On my last outing I started the bike and selected neutral and the bike started moving off before I began to release the clutch leaver. The problem you see it tends to make reverse paddling manouvers more awkward than I prefer especialy at my lofty 5'4''. Although the cable may need some adjustment as the lever has too much free play at the bar (it's a bit floppy) even when the lever is tight to the grip I'm not able to select neutral while the engine is running. The top adjuster needed adjusting outward quite a bit to pick up some of the slack, the bottom; on inspection there was only approximately 1cm of adjustment remiaining at the bottom adjuster. My 09 1000rr has nearly 35,000 miles and anoyingly the symptoms started at arround the time I switched to Motul 300v (from 7100T) leading me to question if oil could have contributed to the symptoms I'm experiencing. I just purchased a replacement clutch cable, at £16.00 it's the cheapest place to begin, I'm pleased I did as there are only a few remaining strands left in the cable at the exit of the bottom adjuster, pleased I took the time to check. After reivewing the various oil threads the good folk on here have contributed towards I believe the oil change is simply misleading and in all likely hood my clutch may well need replacing too. I've never changed a clutch and I believe a tool is needed to prevent thread damage so thought I'd post to check if any one with similar bike / mileage had already replaced their clutch or if there was any other words of advice before this goes back to the shop once more. Thanks all
You only need a special tool if you are taking the basket out. You just need a new gasket, new friction plates and steels along with new springs. Drain oil, remove cable and cover. Undo clutch springs and remove plates and and steels making a note of how they went in so you can fit new ones in same order. They normally advise soaking new plates in oil the day before fitting .
Sounds exactly like any other bike. I changed the clutch plates out on my old Dominator....let the new plates soak in oil for about 12 hours in a quality street tin!
Put the new cable on today and although there is minimal adjustment remaining the clutch is working again, perhaps 500 miles left before it's completely gone. getting the new clutch on order tomorrow.
Blimey, lucky with that cable, you caught in time; I've had a clutch cable snap on me and it's a ballache...I tried to carry on and time the traffic lights but had to give up at a red light and call the RAC
The good news is that the new cable has definately improved clutch operation, the bad news is the OEM Honda Clutch kit is on backorder / maybe a 2 week delay...
Have you replaced the throttle cables? If your clutch cable was frayed, I would be very surprised if at least on of the throttle cables wasn’t!
Hadn't considered the throttle cables but based on your suggestion I asked the local Honda dealership, they advised as there are two cables doing the work they tend to replace the clutch cable a lot more frequently. Very sensible suggestion though!
I've finally managed to get some time and had a go at installing a clutch, honestly having never replaced a clutch beforeI kind of whish I'd left this job to the Pros. I believe I repaced everything in the same way it was removed but after finally managing to align the clutch housing, starter clutch assembly and clutch lift lever etc. all while being liberally covered in liquid gasket. My issue is that now the clutch cable has been reconnected it just doesn't feel right, there is next to no resistance, so now I'm starting to have some doubts. I havent yet put oil back in so I'm uncertain if this could influence clutch feel. Has anyone else changed a clutch on an 2008 - 2012 fireblade, is this to be expected or have I totally ballsed it up?
Yeah, I ballsed it up... I couldn't leave it there so pulled the crank case cover again and the problem was immediately evident. Questions remain, how to locate the 4 x barrels, 2 x gear spindles just in shot (right) and rotate the clutch lifter arm at the correct angle to engage but not smash the Lifter Piece. Seems like I'm getting a new 2009 honda Fireblade part by part.
I've now purchased a new Lifter Piece, reassembled the clutch pack and installed, all the while relying heavily on a cbr1000rr service manual, (link kindly provided by a forum member). Much to my dismay it appears the exploded clutch diagram shows the pre factory recall clutch configuration, after reassembley it appears as though I was also missing a component (12), so on my next convenient moment I dropped into the local friendly Honda dealer and asked a few questions. They printed an up to date diagram and parts inventory, upon comparison of the old vs new it is clear not only am I still missing a part but the clutch pack will need reassembly as the order of plates is quite different. As I followed the out of date manual I had assembled the plates incorrectly, so new spring seat ring part on order and next weekend I hope to complete this nightmare. Lessons have been learned.
