2017 cbr1000rr rear tire size problem...

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by korea marquez, Mar 24, 2018.

  1. korea marquez

    korea marquez New Member

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    hi. i ride 2017 cbr1000rr in south korea.

    After replacing with slick tires 200-60-17

    There was a problem.

    Quick shift does not work (down shifting) and gear indicator operates abnormally.

    It seems to be the rotation error of the front wheel and the rear wheel.

    Is there a solution?

    I contacted Honda Korea, but I have not received any reports.
     
    #1 korea marquez, Mar 24, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
  2. InsanitY

    InsanitY New Member

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    hmm thats gonna be a tough one :))
     
  3. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    You've definitely 'confused' the computer system because the 60 tyre is a larger diameter than the 55. I can't give you a proper answer, but what I would do is see a race technician who could probably reset/remap the ECU (engine control unit) to suit.

    If Honda does answer, I suspect they'd say that they recommend certain tyres (55s) and if you choose to go beyond that they won't help.
     
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  4. icedmind

    icedmind Active Member

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    standard tyre is 190/50 so yea going to 200/60 is a massive step up in diameter; I imagine you would need ECU flash or heeltech speed healer to correct the wheel size difference so the ECU is not confused because your wheel sensor feed information to ECU for ABS, anti wheelie and torque control
     
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  5. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    On thinking about this further, there have been a few posts of owners going to a 190/60, and talking about the better tipping in to corners. Never though, has the issue as described by @korea marquez been reported. Sure, some of those bikes might have been for track use, in which case they are specifically mapped; others though would be ABS, and this is the suspect - the speed sensors.

    Perhaps our Korean friend has already fixed it and not come back to us?
     
  6. RC45

    RC45 Active Member

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    This is by design by Honda and unfortunately no answer.

    That Sport Kit menu that is locked out would be the interface to change the tyre size and/or sprocket size so the Torque management would know the reason for the different ground speed at known rpms.

    If you change tyre profile or sprockets on the 2017 Blade (base, SP1 or SP2) the quick shifter is disabled.

    I have had literal fighting arguments with Honda USA about this and their answer is "Do not change tyre profile or sprockets".
     
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  7. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Good info RC, not that I have any immediate intention of changing either. For me, gearing is fine, and I'm more than happy with the Super Corsas. For many others though, I can see this as a realistic problem. I know your case is different since I've been following your track bike posts on the .net forum.

    From what I read, Honda USA is far less 'user friendly' than our UK office. I followed with interest the black versus gold engine covers thread. I LOVE my gold ones:D:D, and I know you sourced yours especially from UK - thereby depriving us of our special SP bling:).
     
  8. Douglas McDougal

    Douglas McDougal New Member

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    The OEM wiring harness, ECU, and Dash Display do not allow changing of sprocket and tire sizes. HRC makes two versions of the ECU. One for stock set up and one for the power up kit. Both HRC ECU's allow the user to set the sprocket and tire sizes so that the traction control, quick shift work as intended. The latest edition of the HRC ECU's run about $2,175 each and about $1,200 for the wiring harness to connect it. You will also need the HRC Dash Display to change the settings. Settings can also be changed using the HRC tuning software.

    I purchased the power up kit (essential parts + some optional parts), and exchanged several emails with the tech in Japan before ordering. It can get a bit complicated. Cost of power up kit was about $15,000 USD or 1,590,000 Japanese YEN. The power up kit included the HRC close ratio gear set which IS NOT optional. The Power Up ECU only responds correctly, and only powers up with the power up gear set.

    The HRC ECU for an otherwise stock bike works only with the standard transmission set. The above is per the HRC tech at the factory in Japan.
     
  9. RC45

    RC45 Active Member

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    What is the part number of this second HRC ECU you have? 38770-NLS-700?

    Incidentally the Sport Kit is within the HRC ECU. You can use the HRC ECU with the stock Dash or the HRC Dash and still have access to the Sport Kit menus. I have done both setups on my SP2.

    I have the 2017 HRC ECU and 2019 HRC ECU here. The 2017 one is being used on a stock power SP2 stock transmission ratio engine and the 2019 is being used with one of the Ten Kate Redbull engines.

    The reason you where sold the HRC gear set is because there is actually a typo hard coded in the ECU that transposes the ratio of 3rd gear of the standard transmission table. For $400 Ten Kate can edit your ECU and save you buying the HRC gear sets if you didn't want/need them. Nova gears would probably be cheaper and stronger.

    Ten Kate can also flash the fuel and ignition tables in the HRC ECU for SuperStock SP2 or SuperBike (powerup kit) SP2 use. As noted above, I have one of each.
     
    #9 RC45, Jul 11, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2019
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  10. Douglas McDougal

    Douglas McDougal New Member

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    Yes, 38770-NLS-700 is the part number that I ordered. At the time, I had sent an email to Ten Kate and also spoke with one of their techs on the phone (in English). I had already ordered the parts through TSR Worldwide when I got the return email from Ten Kate. They didn't tell me they flashed their version of the ECU, and never brought up the transmission issue. I received a list of the required parts from the tech in Japan, and ordered those. I like the idea of the transmission set, but would not have ordered it had I known there was a work around. I should have found this site earlier. I did order the HRC Gyro sensor for lean angle, and that part was optional. I wasn't sure about the dash. I thought the standard dash would work, but I ordered it to be covered. I received the parts a couple weeks ago and start tear down next week.

    The local race teams that my Tech/Mechanic here spoke with were of little help.

    I will follow up with Ten Kate about flashing the ECU.

    Please provide any input on the following:

    The Japan tech admits there is a slight compression loss from the overlap in the HRC cams, and suggested milling the heads if I want to compensate for that. The HRC head gasket is same as standard per that response.

    FKR 109 cartridge kit from Ohlins. Good option? I am attending the week long seminars at RACE TECH for suspension in October.

    T36PR1C1LB TTX GP Shock, good replacement?

    I do like the Ten Kate Race Body work better than what is available locally. Do you suggest any options regarding body work?

    You are the first person to provide accurate advice in good English.

    Thank you for the reply, Please advise,

    Thank you,

    Doug
     
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  11. RC45

    RC45 Active Member

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    Doug, I am a lot more active on the US 1000rr.net forum, I only occasionally pop over the pond to the UK Fireblade Pub - its the bloody weather, rainy weather depresses me - even through the computer LOL.

    I also posting updates of my Super Bike build on Instagram. @rcfourfive

    As for the HRC cams, be sure to get the SP2 head ported to match, mill will help but the result is going pure racebike behaviour no matter what. To really extract the value the HRC cams/porting/timing you need to be willing to run to the new 14,500 redline.

    As for what you want to do with the forks, it depends of you want to keep stock sized yokes - but you either have to fit the proper Oh,ins cartridge kit int he stock electronic forks or outright replace them - FFIW the TKRP prepped Super-stock TT SC77's ran the stock fork cartridges - the FKR kit is the real deal.

    Shock, you best hit up your chassis expert for that one, but without an associated linkage change you may not get the full benefit you expect. I am running the aggressive MEL setup on my bike.

    As fro bodywork, I do not like any of the local US offerings - they are nto complete systems and you may not get clarification as to what front and rear subframe their bodywork matches up to.

    TKRP have very good body work, but be sure to get their MotoHolders front and rear subframe matched to the bodywork you are getting and the build you intend to make.

    Not every edition of the MotoCarbons bodywork fits the HRC front and rear sub-frames. So its better to get the matchign Motoholders sub-frames.

    I also have a set of Cleverwolf HRC Endurance style bodywork from Japan. By far the best track bodywork I have ever bought ever - bar none.
    The set I got is intended for mounting up to the HRC front and rear subframes.
    Bodywork is good quality, radius-ed edges, pre-installed Dzuz fastners, pre dilled etc.

    Thanks

    Paul

    My IG -send me a message and I will give you my cell phone number.
    https://www.instagram.com/rcfourfive/

    My SP2 build thread - a lot has changed over the last year. Currently on 3rd iteration.
    https://www.1000rr.net/forums/modifications-upgrades-12/246833-rc45s-sp2-track-bike-build.html

    SP2 Buyers Delivery Thread documenting the journey and includes a VIN list now.
    https://www.1000rr.net/forums/1000rr-general-discussion/241209-2017-sp2-delivery-thread.html
     
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  12. Douglas McDougal

    Douglas McDougal New Member

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    Very helpful, Thank you
     
  13. RC45

    RC45 Active Member

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    Practical implementation of some of the ideas discussed, the current progress of my EWC build.
    Stock SP2 motor & frame, Katech suspension, Brembo GPRXs, DPMS swingarm, OZ Racing wheels, TKRP SuperStock flashed HRC ECU, HRC harness, HRC dash all wrapped in CleverWolf HRC Endurance skins.

    [​IMG]
     
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