I have them on my RR7, there are two version of the 329, mine are the MKII they are very rare IMO, also the internals very massively mine have superbike valves and anti dive shim stacks, I also have the rarer HO606 TTX rear to match from much the same year, mine are 2007 forks, they go for strong money and are simply awesome forks! They do pop up on eBay, also fit a few other models too... I'd post a pic but you may start asking me silly questions like do I want to sell them ...lol p.s it's a long story to how I got them right place right time, but they were brand spanking new and stored pps One other member that I know of on here has them too, in the rr4/6 gallery..
Arthur.. I fitted Matris 25mm fork cartridges over the winter along with a HO-604 Ohlin rear shock. The bike is set up as per the instructions and I've tried a few settings on the forks and shocks, but the bike is handling like a pig. The thing is tracking the road, and very nervous and twitchy on corners.. worse than stock at present! Living in outer mongolia that is Aberdeen, there is nobody near by to pop into to have this set up. The forks still feels harsh and firm at the front, had a quick shot of Danny's SP on Saturday and the front of that bike felt like it was a magic carpet ride.. no vibrations or firm "bounce" through the front of the bike.. I know I need to get someone to set it up, so going to go on a most likely 7-800 mile road trip soon to get it set up, but I can't help thinking about having Ohlins on the front of mine Any thoughts on the Matris stuff? bought through Larry Webb at PDQ..
The Matris gear is good mate and tbh there is only so much that anyone can do before you need to pull springs, play with air gaps and shims etc etc, if I were you I would watch some basic setup vids and guides found online to get your basic sag setup, make a note of where you are with comp and reb and dial them off, go for a ride and make some notes, dial on three or so clicks of comp and ride again, make more notes, if you keep changing one factor at a time and keep up the notes you will soon see a picture of what's what, in the end you should go from poor to good to poor again, dial back to good and you should have a base setting. Our year blades like to run flat geom wise, have you dropped the fork through the yoke, have you got stock ride height at the rear, the rear ride height could be high and with a stiff fork it will feel like you say and want to wash out the front or push on in a turn. You should be able to get is super plush. Before the forum died for a mo I wrote the next post for you.
Where there is a will there is a way... OHLINS FG Universal Front Forks FG424 | eBay and in black Sir.... Or how about JTs old forks and mag yokes! Honda CBR1000RR Marzocchi Superbike Forks w Magnesium Triples Clipons Bars Axle | eBay Also the 329 are also the same spec as the 324 afaik. The caliper carriers were changed from model to model to deal with offset, hence why I say they fit other models, part number are:- To determine which forks you have look on the bottom of the fork leg for an engraved number. If they read "4790-01" then you have the original forks at 730mm overall length (fork cap to center of axle) If they read "4790-07" then you have the new forks at only 717mm overall length (fork cap to center of axle) I know an RR7 running the new FGRT forks with minor mods too.
Arthur.. your a star.. glad we got chatting although I could bore you all night with the settings etc. I've done exactly as you say with the sag etc.. haven't. Tried dropping the forks down through yet, love the sound of your forks though.. They must be blinger than bling! I feel a little retail therapy coming on!
Ha I like to browse a little I'd not drop the forks as IMO the RR6/7 feels washy if you do but as I say if the rear is set high then you will have the same effect, it's never easy to measure geometry but you could top out a stock bike and measure two reference points and compare them to yours, when I say top out I mean fully unload the rear shock so it's topped right out I,e no sag. Hope I don't sound patronising mate just never know how clued people are...sounds like your on the case so far. Those JT forks are nice, better with the factory arm and shock, just watch out for that BSB parts grabber that's on here too...lol
Your welcome, also always worth double checking the forks respond well, easy to dial right off both comp and reb and feel them, then dial right on and check response then return to where they were, if no change investigate why? Fork pinching is another factor, forks pulled in maybe and not parallel and easy error but makes for poor handling, front paddock stands are a bad cause of this they push the forks in and people do up the pinch bolts trapping the forks, when the front dives it binds...just a though...
