08 1000RR - Complete Rebuild - Crash and Fire Damage

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by martin_deyanov, Jun 14, 2018.

  1. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Another day, another set of pictures :)

    Here is the engine as it sits stripped down (valve cover installed). The plan now is to put the engine covers back on, install starter motor, thermostat, speedo and neutral sensors and drop the frame onto the engine.

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  2. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    So, valve cover installed with block-off plates. Clutch cover in place, new seal on the clutch shaft/arm.
    Starter motor, knock sensor, speedo sensor, neutral sensor and intake boots - all in place.
    Notice the Rizoma timing cap on the clutch cover. It has a plastic slider that bolts on top.

    Alternator cover will be left off for now, as the alternator wires need some attention.

    At this point the online parts fiche catalogues come invaluable when selecting the proper bolts. Honda lists the bolts type, size AND length, so it is easy to source through my not-so-organized lot and choose the correct ones.

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  3. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Very interesting looking at these. The last motor I saw physically out of a bike was my 1970 CB 750 K1. Whilst all the essentials are just about the same, the refinements are considerable.

    Good range of pics, Martin. As a appreciater of art, I especially enjoy the contrast between fresh paint and rusted drive sprocket.:cool::cool:;)
     
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  4. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    I was sure someone would notice and comment on that. I would have cleaned it, had I not forgotten to loosen it prior to removing the rear wheel and chain. Since I don't feel like hammering it with an impact wrench while in gear it will have to wait until I put the rear back on and take it off the proper way. I am not really concerned about the sprocket, it will clean right off the first couple of miles, but more about the shaft which I need to clean properly.
     
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  5. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    And yes, you are right. Looking at the bare engine and comparing to my old 97 blade (which can be seen in the back in some photos) the refinements are huge indeed.
     
  6. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Yep. There's one in every bunch and it's usually me:rolleyes:;). (Agree with you about the removal)
     
  7. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Frame prepped, masking tape removed, all machined surfaces cleaned, ready to drop onto the engine.

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  8. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    And finally, engine and frame assembled.

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  9. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    Coming along very nicely.
     
  10. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Thanks Hitch, it is indeed.

    Swingarm, shock and linkage installed. All bolts are loosely in place for the moment, just test fitting everything. Will be tightened down and dropped onto front and rear stands as soon as I have the lower triple in place. As you can see, since I am doing all the work by myself, I had to get creative with supporting the engine / frame :cool:

    It is now starting to resemble a motorcycle again :D

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  11. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    I was going to say something about the wooden support struts earlier :eek:

    And yes, it now resembles a bike.

    Great work so far
     
  12. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    I wasn't because I could see they were made-to-measure!
     
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  13. Alan-lee

    Alan-lee Active Member

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    Lovin this thread

    Makes me jealous id love a good project
     
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  14. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Water pump in place. Thermostat mounted and its hoses plugged in. I have put one of the silicone hoses for now, but will probably replace it with a clean OEM hose. I have a complete set coming in. It is perfectly usable, but I don't like the blue, especially being discoloured from the fire.

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  15. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Head bearings will obviously be replaced. New races in place in the frame.

    Also there was a bit of crap down in the spark plug holes... obviously cannot leave it like that. Holes were blown out with compressed air, plugs removed and each opening was cleaned with a special tool I made (a screwdriver with a rag on the end :rolleyes:). Sparkplugs back in place and coils installed.

    Thinking about it, I should have probably done all this while I had the engine out of the frame as access was fairly obstructed. Anyways all done.

    Time to tackle the wiring harness.
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  16. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    First test fit of the wiring harness and first major problem I ran into.

    If you recall, my main donor bike was a 2011 ABS model. The ABS is a completely independent system from the engine management / speedo / controls and starter circuits. So it is not a problem to disconnect the ABS ECU, pump units, sensors etc. and connect the brakes directly to the master cylinders, thus eliminating the whole system. Therefore the wiring harness can be connected to a non-abs bike, leaving all unused plugs disconnected and it will work.

    Problem 1 - the ABS sub loom is substantial (maybe 50% compared to the main loom) and integrates the power connector to the starter solenoid, thus it cannot be completely disconnected. There are 4 (or 3, dont remember) very large connectors for the ABS ECU with a lot of wires, so it is a pretty thick harness. So I either will have to live with a bunch of unused wires or chop it down to the essential wiring and cut the rest off. I didn't like it either way.

    Problem 2 - While the engine / front side of the loom is identical in shape to the non-abs bike, with the exception of a couple extra connectors for the ABS sensors, the tail section arrangement is COMPLETELY different. I ended up buying a mint subframe tray (non-abs) off Ebay and there was no way to arrange the ABS loom, battery, starters solenoid, rectifier and fuse box in a non-abs undertray. Probably could make it fit with a lot of chopping of both the tray and the harness, but this is again something I didn't want to do.

    So I had to either source an ABS tray (which in fact is a lot deeper/bigger to house the extra ABS pumps, etc.) or source a non-abs loom.

    Guess which one is cheaper and more readily available in good condition?

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    #76 martin_deyanov, Jun 25, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
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  17. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    As I was saying ;)

    20180616_172052.jpg Left is the ABS, right is the non-ABS, which was sold to me as an 08, but turned out to be a 15 loom. More on that later.

    Other parts came in as well - frame sliders, front master (gold cap is going away, as I have another reservoir), brake lever, right clip-on, front sub-loom (for the speedo and headlight), Renthal grips and some other small bits.

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  18. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Can you guess what that is?

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  19. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    If it doesn't get polished, I know nuthin'.:D
     
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  20. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Heh, it did get polished and wrapped, prior to connecting. Sadly I forgot to take pictures :oops:
     
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