Have stripped bike down and today put it all back together - bike starts but sits at 4,000 -4,500 revs The orange engine check lamp is flashing 2 short lamps. Anyone seen this before - looking at the MAP sensor as think the 2 flashes relates to this, but its meant to run normally so not sure if the throttle cable somehow stretched but have checked this and can see no fault. HELP - Numpty of the Year nomination is in the offing I can tell...
hmm have you checked your IACV connections? edit but thinking about it this should also throw a DTC??
where is the IACV connector ? The engine warning flashing has stopped after putting the MAP sensor back on securely so can understand that giving the error. When throttle left the butterfly valves below air intake tubes are all shut / closed so I don't think (and having looked a few times) that its the throttle cable stuck half open - if I turn the throttle a fraction while its revving its nuts off it revs even higher
but this should bring an error if not connected, maybe loosen off the throttle cable off completely so you can eliminate it as a problem.
CHeers for that - I did not remove / adjust the throttle cables so unsure why or how they would move. I've unclipped that connector above and put back on - just about to try again - times like this you wish the standard can was on as its pretty loud! I don't think this is mechanical but a sensor / setting telling the bike to massively over fuel the engine - but also cannot understand how it runs with the throttle body butterfly valves closed.
Check the run of your cables mate. Without any load on the engine the butterfly's only need to be ever so slightly of the 'shut' position for it to rev it's nuts off. Oh, and don't panic. You'll laff about this in a couple of months.
The IACV if stuck (cant remember if open or closed) will allow air to bypass the butterflies allowing the motor to rev
What does IACV stand for and can it be replaced / removed / fixed / cleaned etc. Double checked cables - will add an image in a bit - I just hope I can sort it without a trip to a Honda Hospital
Idle Air Control valve. You can check it's working quite easily. Disconnect then remove the valve (two screws), Reconnect then turn ignition on, it should move..
Just to add - really appreciate peoples ideas / thoughts on what it could be - Found the following from the workshop manual Challenge now is to find out how to test the IACV - and if its stuck etc.
you mention you took off the air box, as I said as well as throttle cables, vacuum hoses and the IACV do check loose connections on the Intake air temp IAT sensor too
Thanks for this - how did you resolve and was the damage obvious? Strange that the MAP sensor did this as its 'fail safe' mode is to run normally (so the book says...) Was you bike also idling at 4,000 odd revs?
Awesome service as ever from Mark aka Yorkshire Gooner but annoyingly no change Got a mate nipping over to provide a second pair of eyes in hope its a hose / vacumme pipe or similar which I have missed / kinked / dislodged causing it Other thing is the Idle Air Control Valve - will look again on Sunday and find out how much one of these costs. Mate popped over and went through all the connections - even swapped over the ECU with another one so following have been checked / changed: MAP sensor Removed ScottOiler feed connection Replaced ECU with alternative Double checked hose feeds into air box Double checked vacume hose / pipes under fuel rail Suggestions please!
Well Al, I'm sure I speak for everyone reading your posts when I say we feel your pain. I once had a similar problem with a bike where a 12mm rubber pipe connecting the air box to the crank-case had 'popped' off. Took me ages to find and the stress was unbelievable. So, re-check (again!) all rubber/plastic pipes for splits including those connecting throttle bodies to the cylinder head and make sure they're fully 'home'. Might be worth checking spark plugs for a colour/mixture check. I'm no expert but it's obvious that 'mixture' is reaching the combustion chambers (or even just one?) in more quantities than is needed for a nice even 'tick-over'. No matter what's going on 'up-stream', either in the way of vacuum pipes, electronic sensors, electro-mechanical switches the fact remains, the motors getting too much juice or too much fresh air. If it's getting air only (through a split pipe?) a plug check will reveal a weak mixture. If your throttles are actually 'throttling' ( is it possible, without opening another can of worms, to shut them down completely to see if that slows it down?)and everything else is in order then it surly must be an IACV fault. Unfortunately, with the tank removed there's no easy way to do an 'engine running' check unless you jury-rig a fuel supply set-up. And if you do that you want to be doing it out-side, ('cuz carbon monoxide gas is a killer) and yes, I understand, that's another prob with your after-market can fitted. Anyway, Good Luck with it Al. We all rootin' for you. And try not worry too much all these things do, eventually, get sorted. Nick.
It could be that the IACV is open a tad more than what it should be and needs recalibrating - start the engine and let it run without any throttle input until the fan kicks in then turn the engine off. Done.
Probably a stupid question here but do Blades have a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)? Just wondering if that could be causing an issue I know there was something similar on the Daytona forum that I belong to a while ago and it turned out to be a dodgy TPS causing the irregular idle. You've probably checked that already but thought I would ask in any case..
Thanks Speedox - will try that tonight , just hope the neighbours don't mind too much as even with the baffle its a tad loud. Re the TPS sensor I am sure it has one, just not 100% where it is Can somebody point me where to go to : 'check loose connections on the Intake air temp IAT sensor too ' I plan to have a look at this again on Sunday if the 'warming up till the fan cuts in' method does not solve it - have not seen that listed in the CBR manual as a method to set it up. I wish the IACV was not so burried or I could maybe ask if I could borrow one to test / try as a thing to eleminate. As people say, its something minor, if it was major issue the bike would not start, or would have error lights / warnings etc. Trial and error will resolve, if it went to a main dealer they may end up spending hours testing / checking numerous items to resolve this (or spot it in minutes once stripped down) Final thing is the rad has been drained down and am in process of re-filling / checking level Thanks for help thus far - will keep you all posted.
Air box removed but did not touch throttle bodies (if thats the area under the butterfly intakes) - so all the air filter and housing removed, then cleaned under the rubber cover which sits above the spark plugs (which was filthy) - did not touch the throttle cables or take tank off. Also removed the radiator to give it a good clean up / soak which is put back on now - will add pics in a bif of how far I stripped it down - but its to the point where you can see the IACV torx screws.
