Still no progress on this - Have put this together to show difference in one film https://vimeo.com/90914198 Any thoughts if top or bottom end damage from that - the two cameras help - and I didn't add the iphone footage with the rev counter on display!
to be honest here mate, I really do think the problem was there when idling at 4000. you can hear it "jump" on several occasions at 4000 rpm. something tells me it's in the head, If so it won't be a too expensive fix, have you already got the other engine in? how many miles did this one have(thought I read 40000/50000??)? I would open it up, if not too bad fix it and keep it as a spare, not sure someone would buy it as a replacement with a lot of miles, so would be worth just keeping it, or splitting it for parts. let us know when you find out what it is
I have to say although you can hear the problem in the initial video the sound is not as prolific as it is in the later videos therefore what surprises me is that the dealer actually carried out the work in the first place? Surely you would like to think (I know I would) that if my engine sounded off when starting that the dealers would call you and give you the bad news straight away and say that they did not want to attempt to carry out the work for fear of causing more damage. Then you would think they would offer alternatives at that point and clearly it sounds worse when it comes back from the dealers. Did they at any point call you and say you're engine is F'd in the A? Because failure to do so I am sure constitutes some form of liability. I read some where the other day though that the office of fair trading has now closed down so I have no idea what your next avenues might be? I would perhaps call the CAB (Citizens Advice Bureax) and find out what steps you could take or depending on the ball ache that it might cause could just be worth swallowing the cost of the new engine for now but keeping your current one and strip it down to see exactly where the failure occurred.
I'm with nick on this one, I reckon you won't even need the head off to see what the problem is, the rocker cover will do I think.
I'd still drop the oil and take a look, even if it is going back. Just warm it up over night with a small heater underneath. Take a look at it, then put it back. To be fair I thought it sounded like a bag of spanners in the first video.
Tim. I think you are getting confused. The heat will make the oil "thinner" when it is warmer and therefore drain out quicker and better.
on a multi grade oil? I always understood it was thin when cold thick when warm, so oil changes should be done cold in modern stuff if possible.
If that is correct Tim, it is news to me. But then again I am a bit old school. I was always told to drain oil with as hot an engine as possible. We had multigrades then, but maybe something has changed. Sorry to Hi-Jack your thread Al
You're probably right i thought i'd heard/read its thin when its cold and thick when warm. So change when cool Sorry for hi-jack Tim
. Skippy's right. Rocker cover is probably as far as you need to go to see the problem. Could be the 'case hardening' on a cam lobe (or two) has failed. I had this happen on a brand new GPz900. Was one of a bad batch of camshafts apparently. Nick.
Should my piston head look like this - appreciate image a little out of focus.. Did not expect to see gold coloured speckles on the top
Could be phosphor bronze from shell bearings Alan, i do believe the cams run in them and the crank mains and big ends. If it is bronze most likely cause is lack of oil.
Holy thread resurrection.........what was the outcome of this Al? Did hunts look after you just that when I saw him spunking £150k on his latest toy that he will never ride would have been good practice to look after a customer who on this forum has sung their praises.
