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Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Ice Doc, Oct 1, 2020.
So from reading that, pretty much an IMU replacement?
Thanks @NS400R - looks like 103-1 and 103-3 are pretty much the same thing. Dealer did say they think it might be an IMU fault - thankfully that sort of thing should be covered by my extended warranty.
That seems to be the thinking but the Dealer needs to wait for advice from Honda before replacing anything as it's under warranty.. The bike hasn't had any knocks or been dropped or anything (it's been in my garage when I've not been on it), so see no reason for anything to have changed physically.. I'll keep this thread update in case anyone else experiences this in future..
Thanks for these @NS400R - I've downloaded the images in case they get removed in future That's a very handy book you have there - although probably not a page-turner unless you have a fault.
Well you know where I am....
Same goes for anyone else. At least you have the info to double check what the dealer tells you. And you can ask questions like have you.....
What is the 'CAN' ? ...google simply has millions of exhaust related pages
Google CAN bus.
It's a digital CAN bus.. a method for ECU's (ABS, Engine ECU, Instrument Cluster etc) to communicate with each other digitally. Usually transmitted on two wires, which are twisted together to reduce interference.
You ever get sorted? The IMU is easily tested.
US bike recently had similar IMU issues that turned out to pinched brake light wires.
Probably wont even end up being an IMU issue, but rather some other voltage issue causing lost CAN signal between multiple CAN dependent components at once.
Hi thanks @RC45 - the bike is with my local Honda dealer but owing to current Covid restrictions (this excuse is used widely here it seems), there is a delay in getting a Honda technician to look at the bike. Apparently the next step Honda is requesting (as it's covered by an extended warranty I have) is to test the continuity of the circuits but a tech isn't available to look until Thursday (the bike's been with them for over a week already)..
I suspect it's some kind of cabling issue too - it's only recently been in for its 16k mile service, so I wonder if in the process of stripping down the bike and putting it back together there has been some tugging of wires or something similar. I understand the merits of servicing (especially oil and filters), but I'm not so sure disturbing lots of things in the process of a major service is always a good thing (although I'd be gutted of course if the valve clearance wasn't done and my engine destroyed itself as a result). Maybe it's a coincidence, but all has been good with various cars I've had until they've gone in for a warranty-required service, then a few miles (ok, sometimes 100's or 1000's) something has gone wrong (like an alternator, or ABS pump).
I'll keep this thread updated and pass on any info I get from my dealer. They're quite happy to share the steps that Honda Tech are insisting they do. I'd be surprised if it were a sealed electrical unit (like the IMU) fault, although the bike does get used in all weathers so maybe water has got in somewhere over time.
Update: Just had a call from my local Honda dealer. They've been through all the tests with Honda Tech and have been authorised to replace the IMU.. Apparently this part is around £1k + labour costs, so I'm very pleased I bought the 2yr extended warranty.. Hopefully this will fix the issue for good - will get the bike back later next week - probably on Weds or Thurs as it's forecast to rain both of those days
Has anyone else had their IMU replaced? (Please no sarcastic comments, unless you absolutely cannot resist).
Glad its getting sorted but if you had been riding faster none of this would have happened!
So you know what you have to do when you get her back...
Never heard of an imu failure on any bike but maybe I haven't been listening hard enough?
I suspect they are full of bovine excrement.
IMU is simple to test, its right in the Service Manual.
Bike upright, put in circuit mode, start lap timer and let run for more than a few seconds.
Stop lap timer.
Go to lap timer data and see if it shows any lean angle. 0* IMU is good.
As sensitive as they say the IMU is, I have bought used IMUs of eBay (breakers think they are tip-over sensors and mark the at $50) and made a point of swapping them out and never had an IMU with problems, even from used crashed bikes.
Retail from Honda its a $450 (350 quid) part. Replacing it cannot be more than 30 minutes max. Seat off, IMU cover off, Tank cover off - disconnect negative battery terminal - unbolt IMU and remove, bolt in new IMU, reconnect negative battery terminal, tank cover back on, IMU cover back on, Seat back on.
Oh, and part of the diagnostics would be to swap in a "known good IMU" - so why do they need to go buy one if they would have used a "known good IMU" to complete the diagnostics?
Then charge you extra labour? The "known good IMU" would have already been installed.