My 2009 CBR1000RR8 with 41,500 miles has an engine rattle. I don't think it's the dreaded crank issue - it's not worse on throttle closed and doesn't sound like a supercharger. It's present at all revs, frequency depends on revs. Is audible to onlookers as I ride past. It's not a clutch issue as it makes same rattle whether clutch in or out. Noise does seem to be from clutch side though. Just before 40,000 service I mentioned to Honda garage and they said they'd replace the tensioner at the service, but they didn't replace it as at the date of the service it wasn't rattling (it really was quiet that day, with no rattle!). Anyway, now it's more noticeable, so I want it fixing. I met Lozzy in the rain on Sunday outside a bike shop and she also reckoned it would be the cam chain tensioner based on one she had fixed a while back. Question is: what is the part to replace? Honda garage were going to replace the "tensioner"(the thing that looks vaguely like a door handle from an old car) but I was wondering if it needs a "Cam chain tensioner lifter" (in Honda-speak) this bit looks very vaguely like a fat spark plug and includes a spring and pushes the tensioner against the chain. Or does it need both? I don't want to pay a bundle to get the wrong thing replaced and not fix the rattle. Also, does anyone have any idea of price and whether there anyone has had this successfully done by a competent independent workshop somewhere not a million miles from Derby that they would recommend? Any advice appreciated, thanks!
Thanks red5 for your DIY suggestion, but I'm not very technically competent and I'd rather just pay an expert to do it right! Are you suggesting that it's just the "lifter" that I need to get replaced?
Yes just the item in the pic, fairing panel off a couple of hours and lose a bit of skin off yer knuckles and yer good to go.
Had similar issue on my 08, replaced parts #2 and #4: https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/ho.../CAM-CHAIN--TENSIONER/13MFL801/E__0400/1/2542
2 is the chain itself - do you mean 4 and 5 (the tensioner lifter and the gasket) I hope so, I've just booked my bike in for parts 4 and 5 to be replaced (and also the head bearings which are really notchy and just scraped the MoT when I asked nicely...)
Apparently they are quite a simple replacement should you wish to DIY. Guy here at work has replaced his on a CBR1100 and it's a simple unbolt old, bolt on the new (with the requisite cleaning in between) Might save yourself a few quid (assuming you've got the tools - torque wrench etc.)
Thanks very much, but I am much happier leaving this to the experts. I've had the bike 10 years and ridden 41,500 miles and never even removed the fairing - I leave it all to the Honda dealer!
Haha, fair enough; I'm not that handy with the spanners but like to to do the odd job. The one that panicked me the most was fitting the quickshifter...I just kept pulling more and more bits off the bike!
Agreed. You'd certainly save a few quid, but I'd advise caution as the cam(s) could turn slightly when the tension is removed from the chain. The best way to do it is to remove the cam cover (check valve clearances while you're there) so you can be sure the valve timing is correct.
Got the bike back from Honda dealer on Saturday and engine sounds a lot better with new tensioner. The rattle is gone. Steers a lot more nicely with the new head bearings too. Recently bought a 2016 rear shock, so I will have that fitted in the Spring and forks serviced at same time and then bike should be better than it has been for years. Bought it new 10 years ago and have become very attached to it!
I've just done my suspension.. 2012 rear shock and serviced the forks. Did my head bearings at the same time. Haven't ridden it since .. did you know you'll need a different rear hugger?
Yes, thanks. I haven't ordered one yet, but I think they are about £25. Might keep an eye on eBay over the winter in case I can get a used one cheaper.
Very unlikely to happen, done a few of these and never had an issue, in fact got one to go in my RRE over the winter as it’s rattling, takes longer to remove the plastics than change the CCT . Dealer will not check valves either as that will add a couple of hundred to the bill.
Yes, I only mentioned the clearances if doing the job yourself. Regards the cams moving, it depends on the position the engine stops at. If you're unlucky, one of the cams (especially inlet) could be partially compressing valve springs so when the tension is released from the chain, the cam can turn backwards from the force of the springs acting on the lobes. I've done countless twin cams & a few quad cam engines & a locking device is required for each pair. I definitely wouldn't risk it, plus, you don't know if the valve timing is correct before you start.
