Brake Lever guards for trackdays...

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by Frazzle, Nov 24, 2020.

  1. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    Likewise!
     
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  2. BlackDevil

    BlackDevil Elite Member

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    IMG_20181002_190552.jpg
     
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  3. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    Video review of the cheaper R&G lever guard. Think they're about £35-40
     
  4. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    I think I'll just pick up some generic ones from ebay. I'm sure the R&G ones are fine, I'm just allergic to paying 40 quid for moulded nylon ;)
     
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  5. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    I'm ready. Got a pair of the cheap ones as there's a fair chance that they will get thrown at the scenery :rolleyes:

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    What’s the knack for getting your old bar ends out? I always make a right hash of it.
     
  7. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    Depends on if you need to get the bar weights out as you really just need to bolt the new bar ends into the old inserts.
    If you want to get the old inserts out then I put a longer bolt with a large washer through a ring spanner, screw it into the insert and smack the ring spanner outwards with a hammer until the bolt pulls the insert out of the bar/clip-on.
     
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  8. Barstewardsquad

    Barstewardsquad God Like

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    On the older blades there is a location hole that a lug on the weights latches in to, just push in and pull the bar end.
     
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  9. Frazzle

    Frazzle Active Member

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    Reactive Parts are doing 20% offBrake lever guards .. Lightech, Bonamici racing and CNC Racing... CODE: LEVPROT20
     
  10. Barstewardsquad

    Barstewardsquad God Like

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    How long before Airbags become compulsory?
     
  11. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    I ordered the Gilles lever guard off Calsport with discount for £68. Its decent enough, they're still expensive for what they are. The OE bar weight is a bit of a git to get out, mine was fairly gunked in! Make sure you've got a really long M6 bolt to hand before you start the job then you can put a large socket over the bolt and use it as a slide hammer. You need to pinch the little tab on it to get it moving initially then the slide hammer should pull it out for you. The instructions show a set of needle nose pliers pinching the tab, I used two small flat blade screwdrivers to lever it a bit. Here's some pics of what to expect.... Screenshot_20201202-140538_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20201202-140448_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20201202-140429_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20201202-140525_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20201202-140505_Gallery.jpg
     
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  12. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    By the way, the instructions tell you to take a drill to the existing handlebar insert! I'd treat this as an absolute last resort if it will not budge. Screenshot_20201202-165255_Gallery.jpg
     
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  13. Frazzle

    Frazzle Active Member

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    Judging by the fun I had removing my bar ends to change the grips I'll probably need a chainsaw! :D
     
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  14. Trackit

    Trackit Active Member

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    This "simple" brake lever guard installation is turning into a right pain in the arse. I've got the original bar end weight inserts out, bought a reasonable quality universal fit brake lever guard and installed it. Issues I can see so far:

    1) If the bike fell on the brake side the force would push the universal fitting fastener into the handlebar hollow and the guard would jam against the throttle (the throttle tube overhangs the handlebar by about 2mm). Hopefully the Tip over sensor kills the motor otherwise it will be chaos.
    2) I've tightened the guard (proper tight) and I can still rotate it anti clockwise and loosen it as there are no "notches" like the original bar ends to stop if from turning around.

    Am I overthinking this "simple" universal fit brake lever guard?
     
  15. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    Which one have you ordered? The Gilles one would never be able to move into the handlebar far enough to pinch the throttle. The bar end is the right size to stop that happening. It also won't rotate once its tight either, the expanding knurled portion grips solid.
     
  16. Trackit

    Trackit Active Member

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  17. CharlieR85

    CharlieR85 Elite Member

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    Yea, seems to me that the knurled portion isn't very knurled and it doesn't go very deep on that one. Not much you can do about that really. You could try and wrap some coarse sandpaper round it and see if that gives a bit more bite onto the inside of the bar when its expanding.
     
  18. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    Can't the generic ones just be bolted to the existing bar end weight insert with suitable washers and whatnot?

    F-it... I've just ordered these for £8.55 and will report back.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114304835495
     
    #38 dern, Dec 17, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2020
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  19. Trackit

    Trackit Active Member

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    Very similar to the one I have, you could probably machine a collar between the guard and the existing bar end insert which is a better idea then using the generic inserts supplied. The generic ones aren't keyed and will spin around.

    I ended up making an 18 - 21mm top hat spacer 20mm long which goes between the guard and the throttle tube, I've also keyed it to stop it turning around. Think I'll end up getting a Gilles one as I don't trust this one on track, might vibrate loose.
     
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  20. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice, I'll see what it all looks like when I get it.

    As for the vibration I've got quite a lot of superglue and liquid metal I'll employ if need be ;)
     

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