The issue I have is after a very short time the pistons go tight, I have used brake fluid and red grease castrol, I have polished the pistons, removed seals no corrosion, over the years tried all-sorts but no silver bullet,, They are ok but would like them to glide in the seals like when first fitted for a bit longer, I dont go out in the wet and only do 2k a year
im just gonna give them a clean and lube for now, see what that does, if not, ill have to look at replacing them, dont want to be without the bike if i sent them off for refurbishment.
I take it the bore of the calliper is not corroded & without distortion. Refurbishing doesn’t take long. I would seriously consider the option on car next time my callipers play up
ok, i have had some more thinking time, im going to replace the pads, i think with genuine honda ones, unless anyone has any comment? i dont know what state the calipers are in, but its only done 18k
well, i have done it today on the caliper that was sticking, the pads were worn down tapered, to virtually nothing on one side, and several mm on the other. so, even though they arent anything like the twin pots on the car, or the single pots on the other cars i have done, the Haynes book suggested that they should be able to be pushed back by hand. None of that happening, so I pulled the brake lever to move them and then used a tyre lever with the old pads to move them back in until they were moving easily. One pot was stiffer than the rest, but it freed off with some patience. I used the red rubber grease too, brake cleaner etc. The other caliper was easy to push back by hand so its obviously been stuck compared to the other. anyway, what is slightly alarming is that now the front brakes are really sharp, so much so that its like learning to brake again!
Well done @blink! Sounds like you've had a result there. I'd still keep an eye on the pad wear to make sure they're not tapering again & that the pads are wearing evenly on both sides of the discs. Good work!
Took mine off last week and cleaned the pistons and pads with soapy water and .... Shirleys tooth brush then pushed the pistons back a few times , any way I went out yesterday and the breaking has So much more bite and a fermer lever ,,,,
thats what i thought was weird, doing the same on a car makes sod all difference, if anything its much worse at first without changing the disc too before it beds in. It certainly doesnt change the brake feel like its done to the bike. At least its fairly easy to whip them off to clean them. I fitted genuine parts too, the ones on it werent any brand I recognise
Nothing wrong with genuine parts , that's the way I go , after all they are the most important parts on any vehicle, glad your sorted
oh, i went genuine based on experience. I have an astra turbo, and was talked into buying EBC discs and pads in a forum group buy. They were noisy, dusty as anything, and not as good as the worn ones i took off. After a bit, the discs wore unevenly, so I got a price from the dealer for genuine discs and pads, which came with the service kit, and it was cheaper. They are all that car gets now and it works great. Similar story on the BMW, but the dealer parts were mega expensive, so I bought brembo pads and discs. If i wasnt selling it, they would be coming straight back off
BMW 750 V8 petrol, twin pots, they are so noisy and squeal, and its not because of copper grease or anything, its the material and disc combo
