Well my chain is looking a bit sad and it looks like it's time for a new one. I've never done this before so I have a couple of questions for anyone kind enough to reply. 1. What would you recommend as a replacement (RR6) , I'm assuming I need a kit with front & rear sprocket + chain. Any preferences? Also what lube do you use (on the chain!) ? 2. If I do this myself how do I break the chain for removal, obviously a special tool ... ? Also to link the new chain once fitted. I've done this on a mountain bike where you have a twist tool that pushes out one of the links, is it the same sort of thing only bigger or am I way off here? Ta...
Personally always gone for a a top quality chain kit, DID or the like or Honda branded OEM kit. I have used a DID KM500 chain tool for years, breaks the chain (pin pusher) then sets the new joining link and correctly flares the soft rivet links if used properly. Chain lube is a personal preference thing, as I am not bothered about my bike being covered in sh*te, and the need for a 12 month a year lube that works, Castrol Racing chain lube is my weapon of choice. My current chain has nearly 20K miles of all year round abuse, and is still going strong, largely due IMO to the religious application of lube every 2 to 3 days riding, and always applied to a warm chain. Don't forget, chains do not stretch ie the sidelinks, its the rollers that wear, and the fastest cause of wear is the O/X rings drying and cracking due to insufficent lubrication, and allowing the sealed internal grease to be washed out and the pins start to seize.
Follow this guide for chain and sprocket replacement The only thing I do different is use a grinder to grind off the tops of the rivets on the link that you're breaking. It makes pushing out the rivet with a tool much easier and less likely that you'll break the pin. When it comes to riveting the new link together I use a vernier caliper to measure the plate spacing to avoid seizure issues.
I would add, try to get a chain with a hollow link rivet such as the DIDs. Other chains such as Tsubaki come with solid rivets which require much more expensive tools to flare the link rivet. Think 20 odd quid as supposed to 120+. The installation is easier too. As said, for breaking easier to grind off first then using the rivet tool as this is the most likely time its will be damaged.
every chain i've bought (DID or Tsubak pro link) always came with a soft link (hollow rivet),if they dont they cost about 8 quid to buy.much easier than factory rivet
Oops reading this thread is it only me who completely grinds the old chain off? I've seen too many tools broken trying to break chains and let's face it you're not using it again.
Not just you mate. I put a cutting wheel straight through the one on my old Ninja, then used a soft link with a modified G clamp to put the side plate on.
Usefull vid could someone who knows how put that one in the sticky maintenance videos post at the top of the maintenance page. Thanks
