I have many questions to ask but instead of spamming the board i will ask them all here in one place. PC5 with HM QS or Bazzaz TC + QS? Z-Bomb, does anyone use this? will it work with a PC5? is it worth it? Airfilters, K+N are not as good as the stock filter i have read, are there any which are better/worth changing to? Flapper mod and PAIR removal mod? again has anyone else done this, is it worth doing? Race fairings, are certain companys any better or different looking than others? Will 2012 fairings fit a 2010 bike? I think that will be enough for now to get the ball rolling
Most folk (inc. me) swear by the HM quickshifter 2012 fairings (road ones) don't fit 2010 but race stuff with headlight removed will fit as clock mount bracket is the same as are all other mounting points (as far as I know) I run a K&N filter and have not noticed any change over standard - but then its been on for about 60k so cannot remember how a standard one felt
2012 fairings will fit 2010,but need the 2012 air ducts.yes sone are better than others,CRC are good,as are pro fibre. the main reason these days behind the aftermarket filter is that you can clean them. HM q/s is better than the bazzaz,and more reliable (usually).all depends if you want TC (of sorts) or not.
Z bomb is for American bikes. Don't need it cause ours are full revving full power. I have Bazzaz and it works. But so do power coms. Which ever u get cheap second hand will work well. For me I prefers my hm shifter. But needed the money and had a bazz shifter so using that. But would have a hm over a bazza one. Have got crc panels and there good but quite thin. Bb plastics have been good for me and also king carbon , they are thick fit well and crash well
i think the z bomb is basically the same as the Glpro TRE. on certain bikes it fools the ECU into thinking the bike is 4th gear so you get full power in all gears,namely 1st+2nd where as most bikes have the ignition retarded to prevent flipping on full power.this was the case on my zx10,and i think gsxr's.it also removed/s the limiter in top,so will rev out and increase top speed.not particully useful unless your doing high speed runs,even on track,for the most of us we dont reach top speed in top gear.
Depends what you are after, sounds like you are looking to make yours a track bike. Mines predominately a road bike so may be different for you! The OEM filter is actually a really good unit, problem is it blocks up fairly quickly if you ride in a dirty environment. Got a BMC myself (road version) does the job well, cleaned it twice already so easily paid for itself. If on the track you mine consider the race version. Already have a PCV (and Autotune) but will at some point get a HM QS SS - TC is not something that really appeals to me, - I don't ride that hard!. As I have the Autotune my PAIR is disabled/blocked already. Also I run a standard exhaust with the flapper disabled, not sure if there is any performance increase but it sounds a tonne better!
Auto tune and pc5 will be my winter upgrade with sigma slipper clutch also. Was going to pay out 200 for custom map but have decided auto tune would make more sence and mean any future mods wont render my map useless..
This is great guys, thanks for the replys! Spending the extra money on a bazzaz I think would be better spent on a decent HM qs I'm not to bothered about the TC to be honest. so if I add the auto tune to Pc5 this will disable the PAIR? I've read that the pair needs to be disabled to give the PC5/bazzaz the correct AF ratio. Also would having auto tune mean I would not have to visit a dyno? The flapper mod is to remove the flaps in the air ducts, or is that also only a US thing? I guess if I changed to race fairing ducts they would not have any anyway? Looks like I don't need a z-bomb then either.
BMC air filters are ment to be way better according to my dyno tuner I run a BMC race filter on the road and its great. the flapper mod is also a UK thing as well ive just done that to mine. you can also run the standard air ducks on race fairings like myself. Also the auto tune is useless to a point. When I got my bike mapped up the other week we had discussion on the auto tune and my tuner said its not good because if say you ride your bike to work nice and normal, not like a racer it will map your bike to the slower conditions thus giving it less bhp so when you do take it out and rag the bike good say a track day it will still be running the slower map, the system will never map your bike as well as custom nor will it ever map it to its full potential because its constantly changing it never giving you the best map for that moment in time cos its always running the best map for say 5min ago not right now it cant predict the way you will ride one second from now, so say 5min ago you were doing sighting laps now you are wanting the full power for your proper laps you aint got it. So for me good on paper but crap idea in reality its better to have a properly set up bike with as good as you can get fuelling and air intake so it always runs well. The power will be there when you need it or not.
With the auto tune I believe you have to accept the changes to commit them to the map. So you need to check and confirm the suggested changes and it can only make 20% changes at a time so if your sensor fails it wont run you to lean. So you need to be willing to connect a laptop and mess about for the perfect auto tune map. Also remember maps tables are based on revs also so fuelling at 10k won't be th same as 4k for the commute to work.. If you ride at 10k on your commute then yes the map will reflect this so don't understand your tuners comments.. Probably a case of auto tune makes maps redundant so dyno tuners are not to keen on them!
I understand your point there the tuners will always push the go to them for a map . But is the whole AUTO part of the auto tune not the fact its automatic and does the mapping for you there and then. With no need to get on a computer. The map from the auto will never be a 100% map tho thats what conclusion i came to with the whole thing it will be like 90-95% mapped. The biggest point for me is the fact that no race team ever used the auto tune and such a product would be so advantageous to them with the fact they are all over the country or even all over the world so slightly different conditions at ever venue would benefit from a perfect map. From what I remember cars have a similar system in their ecu where obviously it hasn't got the capability's to map up or down as 20% but it still learns how you drive and maps the car to smooth out the throttle and lean out the fuel mix which is why you get into 2 identical cars and they wont drive exactly the same very slight difference but noticeable if your looking for it.
Quoting Arthur here not me but best AR isn't allways best power. This is why race bikes have a custom map. However with auto tune it's can compensate for riding conditions. Your custom map will be how it performed while on the dyno so hot limited airflow etc. auto tune is real world riding mapping so a range of heat changes and airflow etc. so much better for road riding imo. Plus any future changes to the bike wont mean another expensive mapping session
You will need to disable/block the PAIR separately when fitting an AT. The PAIR will also be disabled during a dyno whether or not you have a AT fitted.
I've run an AT on my last two bikes and I think it can work really well, but this was only afters quite a lot of pain and learning. It certainly isn't PnP!. IMO the AT works best in conjunction with a good base map. A custom map also provides a very good reference so it is easy to identify when the AT settings need to be adjusting. After a lot of experimentation I got the AT working so it never adjusted -/+ 5% from the base map (without resorting to the threshold limits). Get it wrong and the AT will try to adjust massively from the base reducing performance and potentially risking damage in the long run. You really need to know how to use it to get the best out of it. Ie what AFR to use in each cell and where to disable the AT. If creating a new map you need to avoid engine braking at partial throttle(BTW it's a PITA to create a custom map on the AT) • It works excellently at high RPM high large openings of the throttle. • It doesn’t work well at small throttle openings and low rpm • It still maps on engine braking/over run. IMO the AT is a great tool but I don't think it can totally replace a custom dyno. That said its usability would be greatly improved if DJ tweaked it so it didn't map on engine braking.
Good feedback there slick from a real at user. I've decided to sell my pc3 for 120 - 130 and buy a secondhand pc5 and auto tune and hopefully for around the cost of a custom map 200 quid be able to run the auto tune give or take 50 quid. Don't mind playing and plugging in the PC and tuning where needed. Oh also need a boss welded to the headers of course.. Anyway my plan for September I think..
I've managed to pick up some ex-BSB top+bottom race fairings and tank cover. The guy said the seat unit won't fit as they used the HRC subframe. So I'll have to source one from somewhere to finish it off. I would like to get a PC5 but undecided on the AT I'm going to keep the original air filter but take the metal mesh stuff off, also going to remove the intake flappers. HM SS QS Is this sounding ok to you guys? I would now also like to change the gearing for less top speed and more acceleration, now I believe the standard is 16/42? What are other people running? I was thinking 15/44, or would this be A bit too much, I'm not looking to do wheelies every time I open up! Also would renthal be the preferred sprockets/chain, 520 or 530?
why bother taking off the mesh on the filters? dcant see it giving you any extra gain,just more chance of the filter disintergrating and getting into your inlets (not likely,but you never know). chain,go -1 f +1,2 or 3 rear depending on how flighty you want it,but you will need a longer chain if your going up 3,either that or your wheel base will be too short and make it very twitchy,and flighty. 520 or 530,all depends how many miles your looking at doing,track only go for a 520
