I already have some spot spirit levels as well as one small side to side one, I was already intending to double sided tape these to it just so its level when I do it, if I need to weld anything up to make it a bit more solid then not an issue, I nearly went for a paddock stand balancer and then made my own frame up, but by the time I got hold of some decent metal to do it with it would have cost me more to do, lol, typical hey. Muffking, love the balancer, what more do you need, thought of doing similar myself, to be fair, I was just being lazy
I think it's been covered:- Tyre remover inc bead breaker. Tyre bar (or levers & rim protectors). Tyre soap and small/medium brush (I use a cake making egg brush). Valves if required and maybe the tool to pull them on (although I used to pull them through with a nut and spanner). Decent compressor. Balancer. Wheel weights. I think that's it.
This type of tool is cheap (first listing I found!), small and doubles up as core remover and valve puller. Some of the larger valve pullers are more designed for car wheels with more room to work but the tool below is small and easy to work with in the confined space especially on the front with the discs on. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Way-Car...422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a8ca22bae
Well feck me, that's what it's for. I've had one of those for years and never knew it was a valve puller too. I even ended up buying one of those longer ones for cars too.... Dohh!!!
Cut the old valve off, push the new one through the wheel and screw the tool on where the cap goes, then pull it hard to the valve pops into place.
Here's one perhaps for Craig then. If the bottom end is for removing the core, the top bit is for pulling the valve through, I'm guessing the left bit is for re threading the valve, but what's the pointy bit on the right?
I would best guess the pointy bit is for the initial recutting of the thread hence the taper, the wider part is for the main cutting once you have made sure its not going to go in cross threaded using the pointy bit, but that is only a best guess.
I think the pointy end is for deburing the end of a newly drilled or cut end where the core is to be fitted before running the tap end down it to cut the threads. Never actually used either the threading or the opposite pointy side tbh.
Another option rather than paying out hundreds on your own tools - take it to a local trackday. There's always a tyre fitter there who will do it for around £10 per loose wheel. No need to actually do the trackday - borrow someone's stands for half an hour and you can get the wheels off, tyres swapped and wheels back on in no time at all.
The nearest track is a 100 mile round trip plus entrance fees, by the time we are done it is still going to cost a fair bit and of course there is the fact I can only get them done as and when there is a meeting on. For me its better to have my own equipment as and when I need it, plus of course I can help a few mates out as and when the time requires. Good thought though, particularly if I was already doing track days
Yeah, 100 mile round trip is kind of a big pain in the ass! Next time I'm passing and need my tyres swapped I'll give you a shout!
when was the last time you did a NL day? has been £25 for the last few yrs,be it parkitt,IFM or stef. £30 on euro trips.