Iv got a 2010 abs 3000 miles iv just changed the pads for SBS sintered because they were very spongy and no bite to the brakes decided to do a conventional line bleed started with the mc there was air in there got that out next the furthest caliper put loads of fluid through loads of air could not get it out decided to do a reverse bleed I haven't done this before but it seemed straight forward got some air out into the mc tightened every thing up no brakes at all I mean fuck all I must of done something wrong with the reverse bleed need some advice please I can't do any more to it today anyway until I get some more fluid.
I thought u would do the mc last as it the highest point? Also try cracking the banjo that normally helps too
Don't do anything rash!. Do not turn on the bike, this will activate the ABS and may let the air in, if you let in in the ABS you will need a full bleed. Get yourself that fluid and bleed normally. You have got air in the lines and need to get rid of sharpish, Can't comment on reverse bleeding as I only do the normal way, bleed the MC then from one of the calipers, pump away until you get rid of the air then repeat on the other caliper. End on the MC again, then leave the level strapped up over night, for go measure I repeat the process again - good luck!
The only reason I tried the reverse bleed was I put about 2 litres of fluid through and it was still full up with air
2 litres!!! That's going some considering I used 500ml max and that's when I replaced the lines and MC (ie with dry lines and full abs bleed) Like I said I haven't tried the reverse method, but I do have speed bleeder on the calipers, with a syringe attached to collect the used fluid. The speed bleeders are handy as 1 they do not allow air back in and also 2 provide a lot of back pressure which I assume aids bleeding.
If the abs bit is connected to the part I'm bleeding and there's air in there I could be pumping fluid through for a fortnight and still not get the air out
Lets hope this is not the case and you can remove the air just using the conventional bleed. You may also need bleed from the junction blocks at the top of the radiator, this allow air in the more tricky places to escape.
Just a quick update been out there two hours finally got all the air out quick test ride even before they've bedded in that's the best the brakes have been since iv had the bike someone on here recommended SBS sintered pads and they were spot on
