Removing Pillion Pegs / Fitting hooks (08-16 non ABS)

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by Apollo, Mar 24, 2018.

  1. Apollo

    Apollo Active Member

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    Hey guys, I wrote up a post about the hooks I bought and how to fit them in an easier way, just thought I'd post it as pillion pegs removal too, to make it easy to find for people.

    Post about hooks and where to buy them good and cheap here:
    https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/uk-made-racing-hooks-sato-replica.34947/#post-457133

    Should work on non-ABS 08-16 models

    It sounds complicated but it's dead easy when you get into it, should take you 30-40min max
    - remove the seat
    - remove the rear sea cowl/rear seat
    - unscrew the four screws holding the tail fairing to the rear subframe
    -- optional -- unscrew the four screws holding down the tail lock mechanism and take it out (this will prevent your fairing piece from cracking when sliding it back
    - slide the tail fairing off slightly (move it around a bit, it should slide easy, make sure to lift the centre (where the lock mechanism is/was as that is a tension point)
    - it will reveal two screws holding down the battery tray, take them off
    - unclip the fuse box and take out the screw you find underneath
    - loosen all the bolts holding the rear subframe to the frame and tank (ideally take them out and keep just the top two frame-to-subframe, keep them very loose, this will prevent the subframe from sliding down and scratching your frame but will make it loose enough)

    - lift the battery tray up, it is quite flexible, I used a wooden plank to hold it up
    Look for - cables leading to the tail piece from the battery tray, they prevent it from being flexed up, BOTH SIDE of the battery tray have a bulge that prevents it from coming up easy, use torch and look from underneath to see these bulges and flex the tray to get it around them

    - Finally unscrew the pillion pegs, use w40, they're were really tight on my bike, I have used a ratchet to get the screws off, in the middle of the undertail section - there is a dip, use a spacer on the ratchet so the ratchet ends up in this dip, it's hard to fit it in otherwise
     
    #1 Apollo, Mar 24, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
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  2. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Hi Apollo.

    I am assuming you have a non-ABS model (as do I) because of the simplicity of removal.

    Members should note that the ABS model is significantly different in the undertray area; fuse box is in different location; and most importantly the 'standard Sato, or copy thereof' will not fit correctly unless spacers are inserted during fitment.
     
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  3. Apollo

    Apollo Active Member

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    Thanks for filling that in Nigel, yes it's an non-abs model, I've modified the title
     
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  4. PauloHRC

    PauloHRC God Like

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    The guy selling the replica Sato's also supplies spacers you mentioned Nigel so may be ok for ABS models!
     
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  5. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    That's good info Paul - with spacers they will be fine for ABS.

    My point was to not be critical of the post, but to tip ABS owners off that the job is not quite so straight forward on their models. As you're aware, I've done my 2011 non-abs, so when I was seeking all the info, I discovered these 'differences' between the two models.
     
  6. Apollo

    Apollo Active Member

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    Oh I didn't see it as criticism mate don't worry! It's good to keep the information compiled so people know :)
     
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  7. bradt

    bradt Senior Member

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    Done it on my rr9 and if I can do it anyone can, so worth the effort (assuming you don't carry pillion)
     
  8. CBRGav

    CBRGav Active Member

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    I Just undid the substance and took it off:) worst part for me was reconnecting the battery lol I've got 3 connectors on neg side so was a pain in the arse! All done now tho. not too sure on the pillion pegs attached to hooks, but time will tell I suppose
     
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  9. CBRGav

    CBRGav Active Member

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    Substance bloody auto correct sub frame I meant
     
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