Hi Guys/Girls, I have been having some running problems, again, so I decided to have a look myself after the garage that fixed it said its fine but I still wasn't happy. I removed the left fairing, 2006 Fireblade, and disconnected the stator from reg/rec which was a bugger to disconnect and found this; photo attached. I used my multimeter on 200 ohms to check the three wires from the stator and the reading went up and after a few seconds came down to 0.9 across all three wires individually. I then checked between these three wires and the frame and got this reading. I don't know why the connector looks like this and I'm not good as you can see with this kind of stuff so I really need some help. Btw, my stator has already gone once and was rewound by West Country Windings and my reg/rec is the newer type, RR110 from Electrex World. Cheers Paul[/QUOTE]
I don't recall what the resistance between the windings should be, but that sounds ok. Don't think it should be more than around 1 ohm. Resistance between the windings and ground should very high or infinity. So everything looks ok to the stator itself. Run the bike and check your getting above 60vac at around 6k from each winding. I assume that connectors to the stator? Sure it's not from the previous issue? What the running issues, how does the wiring look either side of that connector? If the ac readings test ok and the wiring either side looks normal, give that connector a good clean and cut the melted plastic off it. It may be worth pulling the actual female connectors out the plastic and giving the jaws a little squeeze to make sure thier tight on the male connectors when fitted. Once that's done run the bike again and test at the rectifier/battery. Feel all the wiring to see if anythings getting hot, if so test for where there could be a bad earth or short upstream of the stator.
Sorry mate, has come to me that I think the females are the rectifier side. So that connectors from the rectifier? Doesn't make any difference tbh.
That connector is from the stator not reg/rec, I've just checked Electrex World website as I'm not at the bike but I don't know what I'm doing so please explain 60vac? Sorry for any confusion
If you look at your meter at 13.00 there's 200 between the 600 and the V~ symbols, switch the meter to that leaving the leads where they are plugged into the same meter terminals as in the picture. Black lead from the meter to either a good earth or the battery negative, red lead to each of the yellow windings from the stator, taking the reading at each point. They should all read over 60vac from memory if think it should be closer to 75vac Even if they do all read above, as per the resistance measurements you won't to see them consistent/roughly same. The stator puts out AC, one of the jobs of the rectifier/regulator is to covert this to DC. If the wiring on the other side of that connector looks fine, it could be the actual connector that caused the problem. What is the running issue?
Sorry mate, to be clear, do this with the stator left disconnected and testing on the other plug from it (same as you took the resistance readings from) not needed to start and run the bike for a short period providing the batteries ok.
The running issue is lumpy through town around 3-4k revs and especially when coming down a windy hill popping from the exhaust and a lack of drive at times out of bends, roundabouts, etc which is really annoying. I've been told by a number of people to cut the terminal blocks off and to crimp, solder the wires together with quality heat shrink. Can anyone advise me if this is a good/bad idea? I'm thinking bad as if the stator or reg/rec is/goes bad it'll affect the other part in turn.
It would work as would a repaired/replaced connector providing of course it's the cause of the damage. Note I say cause not symptom. Is it a bad idea due to the reason you suggest, nope as a a decent connection from the multi plug would have exactly the same effect. Is it a bad idea for other reasons, perhaps IMO. It's kinda hard helping if your not prepared to follow the steps i've suggested which without you will be unable to confirm or eliminate the connector as the cause. Bailing out dude
I'm not at home mate so just asking the questions to fix it, hopefully, when I get there/at the weekend
Ok. Update on my checks since charging the battery. Battery at rest 12.8v Battery leakage test 1.93mA with the negative lead off so tested between the negative lead and negative battery terminal. Stator retested, 0.7, 0.7. 0.7 ohms but when I checked to ground nothing changed on the meter as before. I've checked the instructions that came with the meter and they say that 1 is indicated in an over-range situation. I'm confused what I'm doing wrong. I also re-checked the reg/rec. Voltage test 12.8v Continuity between green wire on main loom and the frame I'm unsure of though as this was 0.05 at 200 ohms range. I will check the reg/rec diode boards and battery again when I get home. I'm guessing it's best the check things with a charged battery as I'm now getting better results than before.
Absolutely agree with Dave d. I had the same problem three times, stator burns up. You need to check that you have the Honda OEM upgraded stator and flywheel fitted. If you don't then it will cost you about £350.00 for the parts. If your stator is knackered again then just rewinding it or fitting a replacement is a waste of time as it will only burn up again in a few thousand miles. It's essential that the upgraded flywheel is fitted at the same time. That connector looks like the damage mine had on it last year, I replaced the reg rec and stator and flywheel and just used heavy duty connectors and heat shrunk them and they have been fine. What Dave d has suggested are the steps you must follow to correctly identify the issue, test stator ac voltage then test reg/rec and battery etc. there are some very good YouTube clips that explain it in great detail. They helped me and I'm an electrical dumbass!
I think the 1 you’re seeing on the meter represents infinity, so between the coils and earth that’s good. Measure the AC voltage from the coils, are all three as per my previous posts? Then measure the dc voltage at the battery with the bike when running, if the 12.8v is with it running and the AC from the coils is @ the circa 75ac either the reg/rectifiers faulty or something’s dragging the voltage down, which could be what's knackered that connector- the connector itself could also be the cause. With the battery fully charged and the Stator, Reg/rectifier discounted go for a short ride. If you can disconnect the headlight, even better as the battery will last longer (Short being around the block) If you still have running problems then I'd suggest that whilst it's something that needs sorting the condition of that connector is not the cause of the running issues, nor is the performance of the disconnected components. As an example, I had an issue with the stator on my 929. We were on a ride out, we stopped to meet some others. Went to start the bike, battery was flat. We jumped it and managed to borrow a mulitmeter of an old fella whose house we were outside, was obvious the charging system was at fault. We then swapped my battery with another from one of the other bikes on the ride out, I turned my lights off (can on the 929) jumped the bike which my battery was now on and I rode for around 4 hrs until the battery was flat. We then swapped the batteries back again, rode for another 4hrs- The bike ran fine with the failed stator and no charge going to the battery. I've never owned the version of bike you have, but have heard like Bandit says of an upgrade that sorts the repeat stator faults- However, need to find out if the stator actually faulty in the first instance. I've PM'd you also mate
Thanks guys. I have not done the output test from the battery or stator yet although when I did it before charging the battery I got 13.8 at 5k but the battery at rest was down to 12.25v. As for the upgraded stator and flywheel, to my knowledge there is no oem upgrade for the 06/07 only the 04/05 can be upgraded to a matching pair. When you say to check the voltage from the stator at 200 VAC I will when I get home. Then with my new meter leads I'll check the positive and negative diode boards on the reg/rec again. I really need to figure out how to get the bungs/engine mounting bolts back on first before riding it though. Bloody R&Gs.
tbh mate, think the fact you got 13.8v dc with it running at 5k you'll 99% sure to get the correct voltage out of the coils. If this stay's above 13.2 ish on tick over, the reg/rectifier looks fine too, if it drops below then checking the coils is a must, if they are fine in terms of output your reg/rectifier could be shot or again somethings dragging it down, explaining the high current/melted connector plug. If its all ok, the damage to the plug could be isolated to the connectors inside not making correctly, still think these can be fixed rather than replaced. Is there any signs of the wiring getting hot? if there's enough current flow to do that to the connector and it's not the connector itself I'd expect to see some signs on the wiring too.
The yellow wires from the stator especially the one of the burnt side was getting warm yes mate. I'll go and check more stuff when I get back. Cheers mate
So................How do you know that the Flywheel & windings are the latest ones? Not saying this HAS happened but it could have...........Previous owner may have fitted a flywheel / windings from a 04/05 bike not knowing they were problematic......you never know ? I,ve never known someone to have soooooooooooooo many problems wiv their bike as you!............ Fit a NEW OE flywheel & windings from Mr Honda, clean & re-tension that terminal and enjoy RIDING the bike...........There are some things you can skimp on but a Honda charging system is,nt one of them.
Difficult to know for sure what was replaced on it but my understanding is that you can't put the 04/05 stator and flywheel on the 06/07 and who's to say it's the stator, hopefully it isn't. I've had a lot of problems yes but some are down to my crash, etc. Thanks for your reply though Haggler
Mmmmm............But 06/07 bits will fit a 04/5................strange? Get it sorted fella.................looking like a good biking year
Cheers Haggler. Really need to mate as these fucking buses are doing my head in. Wish I could know what's on there for sure. Can anyone tell me where to lift the engine from as it looks like the right side dropped very slightly. I didn't realise I needed to support the engine to remove one crash bung.
