Anyone read this book or watched the DVD? I was watching part of the DVD on youtube last night and it seemed like it'd be a good watch. Quite a lot of in-depth tips. The DVD's not exactly cheap but I figured it might be worth a buy.
Got the DVD, but just lent it to a mate. Once you get past all of the uber-cheesy Californian bullshit, it's pretty good & well worth watching 2 or 3 times & trying out the techniques.
Cheers, Si. Depends how big the file is. I know there are websites like putlocker where you can upload larger files etc. Or you could email it. Or I could send you a memory stick. Is it the video?
Its an AVI file...around 2gig. Top quality. It's ok, ive got drop box.. i`ll upload it to that tonight, and send you the link.
I have read both books many many times, have both DVD's as well (TOTW 1 and 2). Every time I read the book or watch the DVD, I learn something else new, or something else just clicks... I've also done up to level 3 of the California Superbike School itself, and am a member of the CSS forums... (CBRKid on those forums) Loads of good riding techniques, and I try to apply them all to my riding every time I am on the bike. I am still not the fastest rider, but I try to apply the correct techniques...
Tell you what. It was a tip given by someone on here that's helped me tonnes this year. I wish I could remember who it was so I could thank them When cornering, try to keep your forearms as parallel to the ground as possible for maximum efficiency of leverage on the bars. Ever since I started doing that the bike just feels sooooo flickable. I've been able to just whack it through the corners with no hint of tensing up or corner speed anxiety.
I was doing it all day during our recent northern ride out. Makes it all so much easier It did have another effect though. I felt like I'd spent all day getting kicked in the groin once I got home Using muscles I wasn't used to using I guess. It's still a bit sore 5 days later
Throttle Control Rule # 1... Once the throttle is cracked, it is rolled on evenly, smoothly, and continuously for the remainder of the corner. Say it a couple thousand times.....
Getting on the throttle stabilises the lean angle of the bike, so you steer as above, then crack the throttle to maintain the lean angle, no more steering input... The rolling on continuously puts the weight of the bike into the "BEST" combination of 40% front, 60% rear, as calculated by the basic contact patch sizes of the tyres. Rear tyre bigger, therefore needs more weight to balance out the traction. It also puts the suspension into the most usable working range, the middle... It is rule # 1 because breaking this rule could be by getting a bit freaked out and chopping the throttle which puts too much load on the front tyre and suspension, which could lead to a lowside, or will push you wide on exit. The only way to be able to consistently predict the lines we shoose by our one steering input per corner is to be consistent with the throttle. Even riding through sand or gravel on a bend, you have a better chance of making it through by rolling on the throttle, as off throttle is more in the direction of hitting the front brakes... That is the direction you go when you are off the throttle... Too much load on the front. I could talk about Keith Code's teachings all day!!! Here are some articles from different websites (sorry if this is not allowed, mods, but this is great riding technology), with Keith Code's writings, in between the publishing of his books... Keith Code - Motorcyclist Magazine Contributor / Author Articles - Cornering Forum I can read this man's articles all day long too!!! The superbike school articles are really really thought provoking. Here's a little piece of one called Holding Your Line... written by Keith Code. Run Wide Adjustments Here are some classic errors and problems that counter your efforts to maintain a predictable line: Throttle errors: 1. You roll on the gas too soon. Before it is fully leaned into the turn. 2. You roll on the gas too aggressively. This over-extends the forks and increases speed too much, both make it run wide. 3. You roll on a little bit and stop. That alters your line. This counter-steers the bike up (wide again) when weight transfers forward. 4. You go on and off the gas in the turn. That makes the line unpredictable and it widens it. Line Errors 5. You start into the turn too early, forcing a wider line through it . 6. You start into the turn too far to the inside, again this forces a wider line through the middle and exit of the turn. 7. The turn is too much of a decreasing radius turn. Do it in constant or increasing radius turns until you get the hang of it. The Usual Bike Setup Errors 8. You have an overly stiff a spring in the front of the bike. That holds the front up too high and makes it want to run wide. 9. You have too much compression damping in the front end of the bike holding the front up too high. This makes the bike want to run wide. 10. The rear ride height of the bike is too low. This rakes the front out and tends to make it run wide. 11. The tires are worn and you have to fight the bike a bit to hold it in the turn. This also makes it run wide. 12. Too much rebound in the rear and too little in the front. This holds the back down and the front up. Wide again.
I do apply the power through the bends but I don't continuously roll on. Or at least I don't think so. I want to see what it feels like.
Just remember the BIGGEST NO NO!!!! Do not add throttle while adding lean angle. Those 2 at the same time can and will result in a highside at big lean angles...
So basically once you have your lean angle set and you can see that you can maintain that lean angle for the whole of the corner then you can start to progressively roll on the throttle, picking the bike up as you do?
You got it. Video also talks about adding power before the apex, so long as you're already leant over.
Yes indeed, Code teaches that the throttle should be cracked on AS SOON AS POSSIBLE... This is not at any point in the corner, just as soon as possible (after the steering input has been made.) The roll on for mid corner is said to be around the feeling of a smooth roll on around 4000 - 6000 RPM in 5th gear on any bike over 600cc... (about 0.1 G), so not alot, but enough to get the bike's weight transferred slightly to the rear... Picking the bike up and getting on the power hard is done at the exit of the corner... And remember that a smooth and continuous roll on does not have to be an aggressive roll on, it can be calculated as a very slow roll on, depending on the corner... Does not have to end up in WOT, just needed to maintain the attitude and stability of the bike at mid turn... by getting that 40/60 weight distribution
Anyone needing a copy of the book, clicky here... https://www.dropbox.com/s/jkhhxm07ojq2l3k/Keith.Code-A.Twist.Of.The.Wrist.Volume.II.pdf
