Urgent, FI light flashing and engine jerky

Discussion in 'Maintenance' started by Unity, Feb 14, 2018.

  1. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    I've got a new mechanic. Hes just done a oil change, cleaned air filter and checked valve clearances.

    When you turn on the key you can hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds as normal.
    When you start she starts perfectly and idles perfectly.
    Then occasionally red light flashes and FI indicator flashes. When you roll on the throttle gently at 3k she runs all jerky up and down by herself.

    http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=g135ef639db09c4de10000594921285cc01dd787061

    Mechanic and his 2 apprentices are stumped.

    They say its running on all 4.
    They've checked everything is connected.
    With the cover and air filter off she does the same thing.

    What could it be?

    Where can I find error codes in workshop manual ?
     
    #1 Unity, Feb 14, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
  2. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Is this post for real?

    We have a mechanic and two apprentices who have worked on a bike, but can't diagnose an alleged fault? And then they say it's all okay and leave it to the customer to resolve?

    Maybe I am too cautious, but I recommend to NOT open the fileconvoy link. This just doesn't add up.
     
  3. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    @nigelrb
    Relax its a mp4 file and I've been regd here a long time.

    I was hoping to leave the workshop on my bike. It was getting late. I limped home on a workshop bike.

    So its no longer "urgent".

    Although the problem is still unresolved.
     
  4. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    My mechanic called me now.
    He stripped everything and put it back together and it's doing the same thing.
    However it ran perfectly fine when it was cold, but once it warmed up and reached a temperature of 62C or more, it resumed the jerky behavior.

    I just checked the manual. The thermostat valve opens at 80-84C. So I don't know what would be happening due to a temperature of 62C.

    I suggested maybe there's a coolant diversion valve or something. He liked that idea and said maybe there's an airlock in the radiator.
     
    #4 Unity, Feb 15, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018
  5. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    This 2012 CBR1000RR is doing the same thing!



    In the comments in the video people had accidentally swapped throttle, knock and map sensor connectors.
     
    #5 Unity, Feb 15, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018
  6. PeterT

    PeterT Active Member

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    Sounds like the second set of injectors are not firing, when it reaches 4 thousand RPM the second set of injectors phase in ,yours do not which is why it sounds like it bounces from high to low momentarily,have you checked to see if the o ring has not been squashed when they took of the air box and second injector rail.
     
  7. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    Today they checked all the wires for continuity.
    Stripped everything yet again. Checked the temperature water valve.

    They out the bike on a Honda computer and it said there's a problem with the airflow sensor.
    Then they put the airflow sensor from another bike of the same model and it did the same thing.

    The airflow sensor could be an anomaly because the bike has been de-catted.

    The valve clearance tests didn't involve taking any valves off etc. It was literally just opening the tapet cover to check the clearances with shims. Nothing relating to valves or cam etc was removed or changed.

    The bike revs high when the engine is cold, but when it reaches 68C it goes into limp mode.
     
  8. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    Thanks @PeterT
    But that doesn't explain why it will rev to 9k when its cold?
     
  9. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Unity, go back to basics. The mechanic did 3 things: oil change, valve check, and clean air filter.

    Rule out oil change because nothing would arise from that.

    Rule out valves because you say nothing was changed or altered.

    That leaves air box. Has the mechanic crimped a wire during re-installation? Has a hose been accidentally crimped or displaced, OR, has something been reinstalled INCORRECTLY?

    If the bike went into the service running fine, then the problem can only (99%) have occurred during the service. Cheers!
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    @nigelrb Thanks, yes you're probably right.
     
  11. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    I went and collected my bike today.
    When it was cold I tried holding it at a constant 5k rpm and it sounded uneven, not smooth. A bit of a bump and rumble and the odd subtle pop.
    The mechanic tried to tell me it's perfect while the engine under 68C, but it didn't sound right to me and also it's showing error codes.
    He told me that it's fine. I said it's not fine, it never showed the FI and blinked the warning light before.
    The whole time he's ignored and not acknowledged the FI error codes.

    When turning on the bike it shows the following FI errors
    First it does 1 long flash and 7 short (Injector 2)
    Then it does 8 short flashes (TPS) (a and repeats a few times)

    I found another mechanic that came highly recommended by another biker I met.
    The new mechanic knew what was wrong immediately. He said it's a TPS issue and the automatic choke turns off at around 68C and that's why it won't rev above 2.5k after it's warm.

    I imagine the reason is because the choke adds extra petrol.
    Once the choke turns off there's no extra petrol. With the TP sensor the ECU is only sending an idle quantity of petrol to the injectors. With the throttle closed it idles (seems normal) when opening the throttle a bit after 2-2.5k she coughs back down to 2k.

    The new mech said the TP sensor doesn't break by itself. He said sometimes people let the components dangle and the weight can damage the wires or the sensor itself.
     
    #11 Unity, Feb 16, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2018
  12. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Without sounding like a smart ass; that verifies exactly what I said in my last post. The first mechanic had crimped a wire or damaged the unit whilst it was in his possession. Of course we know HE won't wear the blame, but best thing is it's fixed and you're back on the road.

    I'm now guessing your link in the first post was okay after all. (That's probably the closest you'll get to an apology from me.:)) All the best!!
     
  13. Unity

    Unity Active Member

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    Thanks @nigelrb, well when I said "collected"
    I had to ride my bike 18km at 45-65km/h, mostly on a highway, with the revs under 2.5k from the old mech to the new mech.
    It felt like "the longest ride of my life".
    The new mech found the wires on injector 2 were loose. (after the old mech said he painstakingly checked all the wiring and connections)
    He said he found the TPS was broken (parts rattling inside it) which he said "doesn't happen normally".
    He put a new TPS on and she's one happy lady again.

    He also found a leak in my fuel tank.
    I've had a major problem with stinking like petrol fumes after riding the bike.
    I had asked the old mechanic to check all the pipes under the tank for a leak and he didn't find anything.
    I asked the new mech how he found it.
    He said he saw double sided tape under the tank and thought "This is weird, it's not supposed to be here" and then he felt it and it was soaked in petrol.
    So I said "It's amazing you found it" He said "It's common sense." hahaha
    The relief.

    The tank is getting welded.
    Super stoked.

    The TPS sensor the old mech broke was pretty pricey. But I'm happy I've found a good mech now and my fuel tank is getting fixed!!!
    Something amazing has come from this.

    From a turd grows roses.
     
  14. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    So true. Called crap roses; gave some to my ex for Valentine's Day!!:D:D
     

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